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Southeast Face
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L to R R to L Alpha
Alcazar S 
As You Like It S 
Camelot T 
Chapalot S 
Cyberwanker S 
Finishing School S 
Forced Stress S 
Fort Stress S 
Gargoyle S 
No Name 1 S 
No Name 2 S 
Pitched Battle T,S 
Quartz Jester S 
Rupley Route, The T 
Sir Clipalot S 
Sneak Attack S 
Steel Crazy S 
Tres Frijoles S 
Yo Yo Pinnacle T 


YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 300', Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Scott Ayers, Mark Colby, 1996
Season: spring, summer, fall
Page Views: 507
Submitted By: Charles Vernon on Sep 17, 2010

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Closed to climbing, March 15-June 30 MORE INFO >>>


We only did the first pitch of this route, but it's an excellent pitch in its own right so I'm taking the liberty of adding it here. Perhaps someone can fill in pp. 2-3?

Pitch one begins with two bolts (stoppers can protect the tricky move to bolt #1), with a solid 5.10 move past the second bolt to reach a fun, face-hold encrusted crack that takes great gear. The pitch finishes up with thought-provoking moves past two bolts to an anchor shared with Cyberwanker.


This route is shortly after you round the corner to the Fortress's south face. It is the first route right of Cyberwanker, and is identified by a crack which does not reach the ground. Two bolts lead to the crack.


a single set of cams to a #1 camalot and a set of nuts is sufficient for P1. SQL II recommends gear to 2.5 inch for the entire route.

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