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Camelback Mountain
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Boulder Canyon 
Gargoyle Wall 
Headwall, The 
Praying Monk, The 
Suicide Canyon 

Camelback Mountain 


Photos: Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 1,500'
Lat, Long: 33.5145, -111.9618 Map
Page Views: 64,000. Good page? (2 likes)   
Administrators: Greg Opland, James DeRoussel, JJ Schlick, Tom Erickson
Submitted By: Orphaned on Jan 19, 2006

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Brad Smith at 3rd annual Phoenix Bouldering contes...

Description 

Perched pretty much square in the middle of the Phoenix metro area is this mountain that sort of looks like a camel. It is the closest climbing to Phoenix, with the rock being a sort of desert conglomeration that has been described as "petrified mud." There are some pretty cool routes here, however, and a fun day of climbing or bouldering can be had here for locals as well as visiting climbers. The biggest issue might be getting a parking spot in the small Echo Canyon lot. A little patience is often rewarded, however.


Getting There 

Camelback Mountain is located at approximately 44th Street and McDonald Streets in Phoenix. The Echo Canyon parking lot is accessed off McDonald Street, just east of Tatum (N Echo Canyon Parkway).


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Camelback Mountain:
SouthEast Corner   5.6     Sport, 1 pitch, 80 feet   The Praying Monk
East Face   5.7 PG13     Sport, 1 pitch, 80 feet   The Praying Monk
3-Star Nightmare   5.8     Sport, 1 pitch, 150 feet   Boulder Canyon
Donamatrix   5.8+     Sport, 2 pitches, 200 feet   The Headwall
Chimera   5.9 PG13     Sport, Alpine, 2 pitches, 230 feet, Grade II   Gargoyle Wall
Aerial Combat   5.9+ PG13     Sport, Alpine, 3 pitches, 240 feet, Grade II   Gargoyle Wall
Ghastly Rubberfat   5.10b     Sport   The Headwall
Spice Box   5.10b     Sport, 3 pitches, 225 feet   The Headwall
Cameltoe   5.11b/c     Sport, 80 feet   The Headwall
Browse More Classics in Camelback Mountain

Featured Route For Camelback Mountain
Climber on first pitch of aerial combat

Aerial Combat 5.9+ PG13  AZ : Central Arizona : ... : Gargoyle Wall
P1- 8 bolts to 2 bolt anchor. Start is 20 feet left of the beehive route. 1st bolt is left of the two story cave at the base of the wall. Crux is pulling over the second bolt and it is height dependent. If you are shorter than 5ft 8in it may be harder. (115 feet)P2- The first three bolts are shared with Cholla Traverse. After 3rd bolt trend up and left then follow bolts (6) up to two bolt anchor in a band of red rock, on the right side of large ledge. 9 bolts total. (125 feet)P3- Same as the Fre...[more]   Browse More Classics in AZ


Photos of Camelback Mountain Slideshow Add Photo
brad smith on another boulder contest problem circa 1985?

brad smith on another boulder contest problem circ...

jan holdeman spotting again, some guy with a boatload of hair climbing

jan holdeman spotting again, some guy with a boatl...

Joey at Camelback Mountain, AZ on 'Tallman's Route'

Joey at Camelback Mountain, AZ on 'Tallman's Route...

Joey at Camelback Mountain, AZ on 'Tallman's Route'

Joey at Camelback Mountain, AZ on 'Tallman's Route...

Joey at Camelback Mountain, AZ on 'Tallman's Route'

Joey at Camelback Mountain, AZ on 'Tallman's Route...

Damian Noe on Camelback, Photo taken by Geoff Reed. News paper artical- <a href='http://www.azcentral.com/community/scottsdale/articles/2009/09/25/20090925sr-faces0926.html' target='_blank' rel='nofollow' >www.azcentral.com/community/scottsdale/articles/2009/09/25/2>>></a>

Damian Noe on Camelback, Photo taken by Geoff Reed...

So much wildlife at camelback. This Gila monster was spotted just outside of Boulder Canyon.

So much wildlife at camelback. This Gila monster w...

Bouldering at sunset on Camelback

Bouldering at sunset on Camelback

Moon rising at Camelback

Moon rising at Camelback

Bouldering at Camelback

Bouldering at Camelback

Sunset at Camelback

Sunset at Camelback


Comments on Camelback Mountain Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jan 29, 2012
By cactuscat
Mar 14, 2006

Those bees caused an accident last year where a climber fell to his death - same exact spot!

By Erock
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Apr 25, 2007

Yeah i heard about the accident also a while back, i have climbed that route and damn those bees are all over the place, it scares the crap out of me just seeing that hive. I wont do a route that is anywhere near those bees again, its not worth the risk. However, does anyone know an exterminator?

By ClimbPHX.com
From: Mesa AZ
May 1, 2009

ANYONE THAT CLIMBS THE HART ROUTE OR ROUTES TO THE WEST OF HART ROUTE

The bees are out in full force! My buddy was stung repeatadly again and I warn against doing any of the upper pitches of the Hart Route... The hive is about 10 feet away from the belay of the third pitch and because of the increase in heat.. the bees are very active

BE WARNED!

By Chris Craig
Apr 1, 2010

New to the area. How do I get to the headwall?

Chris

By Chris Craig
Apr 1, 2010

New to the area. How do I get to the headwall?

Chris

By ClimbPHX.com
From: Mesa AZ
Apr 7, 2010

To get to the headwall from the parking lot - follow the obvious line of Arizona State underage ass up the main trail from the Veranda area. When you get to the first major saddle, turn to the south and you will see the headwall below the Praying Monk. - The line starts at the class 4 slope to the 5.3 wall and all the way over to Sleazy Street and Spicebox. I have a pic on here showing the headwall - look on the pictures of the Camelback Mountain to see the overall look - its kind of hard to miss.
If interested in a partner... let me know I love going up there after work!

By Jonathan Grand
Jul 31, 2010

So, the roof cut out on the east side of the trial from bobbys rock, its just south of main headwall...its all slick and by the giant bee hives....found a line that will go! Its a clean sweeping roof, and deserves to get bolted. But the bees make me nervous >< what a conundrum! I think the little cave area has a name, but its such a slick sweeping roof theres no where to bolt accept the route we found. If anyone knows where Im talking about, check it out its wonderous, and I bet it could hit at a 5.13 or so but itd have to be built groud up at first.

By Amichedwards
Dec 25, 2011

Does anyone know what the route directly below the main summit is rated/called? If hike to the top and approach the sheer edge looking north there is a two bolt anchor and a route with ~10 bolts. The rock quality is amazing compared to the rest of the camelback area in my opinion. An awesome old man showed it to me and my partner today and it ended up being a bit more than I could handle after a full day of going up and down the mountain and the headwall.

By Dreez
Dec 25, 2011

I was a newbie with no book or directions. So here it is.

From Echo Canyone parking lot look up to Monks Rock. if you can't see it you should not be climbing. Directly below it is the HeadWall, about 300 feet long and has various climbs on it. Above the headwall is Monk Rock. Behind Monk Rock (but starts at same level) is Gargoyol Wall where the bees swarm and kill people. On the left of Gargoyl is Hart Route were bees kill people.

From Echo Canyon parking lot haul your ass up the trail to first saddle. Trail heads right along headwall. Various Easy routes take you to upper strata and tails to Monk Route. All these routes are crumbly and although easy you will panic as they crumble below your feet and shower your belayer with rocks. Wear helmets. Need no gear other than quickdraws.

Monk Route is easy but a bit run out. Not crumbly like the rest of this mudhill. It has been really cleaned great, its a super route.

By Amichedwards
Dec 27, 2011

Hey Dreez,

Thanks though for the note. Given that it's not on here or any of the guides I'm guessing the climb is too new or too old? The climb I was talking about is right below where you would rap of the main hiking summit of Camelback. Take a beeline from the christmas tree and approach the ledge. There are two bolt lines. Rap or lower down and check it out. It's not as crumbly as any of the other climbs in the area imo.

The monk routes are fun we were up there for ze holiday. They'd placed a tree on top of the monk as well this year.

By andrewrankine
From: Phoenix, AZ
Jan 29, 2012

I, with my buddies Thomas and Jake, put the Christmas tree on the Praying Monk. Click here to view trip report: adventuretraveling.wordpress.com/2011/12/19/a-long-day-setti>>>

I am also wondering what the grade on the pitch on the main summit is. I cannot find any beta, and I want to try it out. Thanks.