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Walrus Ledge
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Camel Toe 
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Camel Toe 

YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a [details]
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Page Views: 248
Submitted By: Erik Pohlman on May 5, 2008
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Description 

11d/12a (see below)

Starts on a slightly overhung face/corner, climbing up into the layback face with the small ledge for feet. Pull a bulge and climb the steep slab through a slightly chossy section and a scary-to-clip bolt. Make a hard undercling move to jug pockets. Steep pockets and sidepulls take you to thin moves at the top.

Holds have fallen off this route over the years. Stay left at the 4th bolt, as some huge stuff has fallen off there.

Also, the top seems to be missing a hold, but it still goes. This move and the undercling move below seem a bit easier for taller folks, leading me to suggest 11d/12a, as the crux move felt just as hard as Warrior Poet and Atmosfear (5'9").


Location 

Near the right end of Walrus Ledge, this is the first bolt line left of the large dihedral crack.


Protection 

~8 bolts, 2 bolt anchor.



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By PanCakeFace
Aug 11, 2013
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a

SO FUN! And SO hard for me. I noticed 3 distinct cruxes. The first being the roof at the bottom, second a cryptic delicate sequence in the middle, and finally another difficult to decipher few moves just below the anchors.

Also, stick clip for sure!