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McGregor Slab
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Camel Toe 
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Camel Toe 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: E1 5a

   
Type: Trad, Sport, 6 pitches, 940', Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Claude T., Mike M., & Pete B.
Page Views: 4,164
Submitted By: Leo Paik on May 4, 2007
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Topo.

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Description 

This is a writeup is based upon firsthand experience, and the name and FA have been added as I have come upon the information. This is a very nice route up the left side of McGregor Slab. It probably briefly crosses Lubrication and Direct in a few spots. It has 5 pitches, of which the 2nd and 3rd stand out in quality. In some ways, P2 reminds one of P5 of Birds of Fire. Nonetheless, you may wearing a broad smile after a trip up. Thoughtfully-bolted. It may feel runout in spots, but there is pro where you need it. Kudos to the FA.

P1. Follow 4 bolts up a low-angle slab. Watch for loose rocks on the ledges. Aim for an obvious tree with 2 slings and 2 rap rings. The crux of this pitch is in the first 10 feet; however, you can make it easier moving left of the 1st bolt. 5.7. ~125'.

P2. This is a terrific pitch. It is sustained. Slab-climbers will love this pitch. Continue up a slab, chasing bolts, popping over 2 overlaps, and weave 2 S-shaped paths up to a 2 bolt anchor. There are just enough holds to keep you going, but slabby enough to demand your attention. There are probably 4 cruxes (below 2nd bolt, 1st overlap, 2nd overlap, and around bolt 7). 5.9, ~175'.

P3. This is the crux pitch, but it is not sustained. It will require some route-finding. Angle right past a bolt, continue angling right to another bolt, pop over a 5.7 roof (above the bolt) on jugs. Clip a bolt and go up to a horizontal. Here's the crux. Delicately balance your way up past the next two bolts. You can go left or right at this 4th bolt (which may be a stretch). Continue up on easier terrain to a larger horizontal below a slab. Find a bolt out left. Pop up onto the slab and find the 2 bolt anchor up and left. 5.9+. ~190'.

P4. Continue up a short, right-facing corner to a slab with 4 bolts. Continue up and slightly left to a 2 bolt anchor. 5.8-. ~155'.

P5. Meander up on easy terrain angling right to a mini-headwall with a tree at a big ledge. 5.4. ~140'.

P6. Per Croy T: There is a 6th pitch that allows one to summit, part of the original FA. From the headwall anchor at the top of the 5th pitch, step to climber's left around the tree and head up into a trough and straight up. Maybe one 5.7 move and the rest is easier with plenty of protection. As of yesterday, two hefty hangers with fairly new gray and blue slings and double rap rings are within feet of the treed summit. ~140'.

To descend, you can continue to the top and walk-off right or left. Also, if you have 2 x 60m ropes, you can rap from the top of P5. Watch that flake 15' above the P4 anchor. It catches ropes.

Per Croy T: To walk off [from the top of P6], head west around the boulders and take a ramp on the back side down to the saddle. Plan on a lot of log hopping due to a blow down a few years ago.


Location 

Find this climb starting just left of where the approach trail reaches the crag. Find a line of 4 bolts.


Protection 

15 slings (ideally 10 24"), cams blue Alien/TCU to #3 Camalot. Wireds are optional. 60m ropes!

What worked for us:
P1. 4 QDs for bolts, green Alien, #0.75, #1 Camalot.
P2. 13 QDs (ideally many 24") for bolts, #1 Camalot, green/black Alien.
P3. 5 QDs (ideally 24") for bolts, #0.75 Camalot, blue Alien, #2 or #3 Camalot, yellow Alien.
P4. 4 QDs for bolts, cams blue Alien/TCU to #3 Camalot.
P5. Blue/green/yellow Aliens. Maybe a #0.75 Camalot.



Photos of Camel Toe Slideshow Add Photo
Above the crux of P3.  Nice rock.  Ok pic.
Above the crux of P3. Nice rock. Ok pic.
Cindy cruising up the 2nd pitch.  Super, Super Fun!
Cindy cruising up the 2nd pitch. Super, Super Fun...
Best guess at lines.  Note, the route labeled as unknown is Camel Toe.  The topo was created before I came to know the name of the route.
Best guess at lines. Note, the route labeled as u...
Upper bit of P1.  Funky, looks like she's just stepping off the ground, but it's 80' below.  Those are backpacks down below, to Deb's right in the photo.
Upper bit of P1. Funky, looks like she's just ste...
Roadside parking and access ravine.
Roadside parking and access ravine.
Topo from below.
Topo from below.
Alternative way to get onto the final slab of P3.  The 5th bolt is off to Deb's left.
Alternative way to get onto the final slab of P3. ...
This is the roof on P3 taken from the anchors.
BETA PHOTO: This is the roof on P3 taken from the anchors.
Near the crux of P4.
Near the crux of P4.
Approach in ravine to east of Della Terra property.
Approach in ravine to east of Della Terra property...
Deb enjoying the P2 slab!
Deb enjoying the P2 slab!
Near the first of 4 bolts.  This pitch ends a little above that straight/dead tree....
Near the first of 4 bolts. This pitch ends a litt...
Comments on Camel Toe Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jun 9, 2013
By Jake Wyatt
From: Longmont, CO
Aug 1, 2003

I noticed a line of bolts, starting perhaps 150 feet off the ground, heading up a large slabby section that's left of Indirect. Does anyone know anything about the bolted line? Rating? History/FA info? (My distances and route references might be a bit off; I lost some perspective once I got on the rock.)

By Eli Helmuth
From: Estes Park, CO
Nov 5, 2004

McGregor is a great, south-facing cliff and is often in great condition for climbing by March and good through October due to the brilliant sunshine up here. Enjoy!

By A concerned citizen
Dec 7, 2004

The answer to your question is YES, I do know who put it up.It was done ground up, on lead, hand drilled, in the middle of winter (finished 12-22-02). Full rap stations so you can rap at any belay or from the top down, no more nasty winter hike, and it is quite moderate as it only has a few 9+ moves. First pitch goes to the tree at about 5.7 second and third go 9 and 9+ to anchors, fourth and fifth to top go about a soft 5.8. You do need a small rack to about 3 and have fun.

By Anonymous Coward
Jul 17, 2005

"The answer to your question is YES, I do know who put it up."......Who?

By Allen Hill
From: FIve Points, Colorado and Pine
May 4, 2007

Looks like you did the first half or so of the classic and scary (in EBs at least) "Lubrication."

By Lew Strong
From: Loveland/Vail, CO
Oct 30, 2007

This is a fine route. Thanks to the person who put this up. Clearly a tremendous effort, and well thought out. Pitches two and three are fantastic. Pitch four is fun. The fifth pitch is quite low angle, and it has various features that catch rappel ropes. I would do the 5th only for a walk off descent. If you have two 60 meter ropes, rap from the 4th belay.

By Kat A
From: Bart and Lisa Ville, CO
May 31, 2008

Really enjoyed this route. We did pitches 1-4 then rapped down with 2 60 m ropes; no issues getting the ropes down - we skipped pitch 5 based on Lew's suggestion, as pulling the ropes looked like it could be tricky, esp when windy. I agree with other's comments that this route was thoughtfully bolted.

By Lee Smith
Jun 1, 2008

Kateri, you sure have the fastest post in the West! Like an hour after we came down the hill.
I would add that it would be nice if someone took a wrench up with them; some of the belay anchor hangars are loose.

By Croy T
From: Longmont, Co
Aug 24, 2008

FYI: There is a 6th pitch that allows one to summit, part of the original FA. From the headwall anchor at the top of the 5th pitch, step to climber's left around the tree and head up into a trough and straight up. Maybe one 5.7 move and the rest is easier with plenty of protection. As of yesterday, two hefty hangers with fairly new gray and blue slings and double rap rings are within feet of the treed summit. About 140'. Great 360 deg. views & comfy place to lunch. To walk off, head west around the boulders and take a ramp on the back side down to the saddle. Plan on a lot of log hopping due to a blow down a few years ago. When climbing with a partner I prefer rapping off. The raps and rope pulling were actually well thought out and to date I have had no problems with rope snag.
Since I rope solo'd yesterday, I went with one 60m rope and carried all my gear, avoiding a heinous return to the base of the climb. Besides the draws, I used #s 3 & 4 C3s, 0.5, (2)1, 2 Camalots.
FA correction: Claude T. helped on a small scale but all kudos should go to Mike M. & Pete B. for lead bolting, ciphering good belay stations and thinking out the rap / rope pulls during some brutally cold days.

By Greg Sievers
From: Estes Park, CO
Apr 30, 2009

The old campground is now defunct (April 2009) and a lodge and cabins well underway to opening. The new owners are very cool about climber access. Please be polite & considerate. There is roadside parking on US Hwy 34 as seen in the photo. The approach is best made in the ravine to the east of the site. (see pic).

By Andy Novak
From: Golden, Co
Jun 9, 2009

I'm trying not to sound like a jerk here, but the 4 bolts up the "low angled slab" are totally ridiculous. Rossiter calls this slab 3rd class. Not sure of that is true, but 4 bolts 12 feet apart up a 5.0 slab seems completely inappropriate considering the route's 5.9 rating. We were shocked and saddened to see those bolts on such an easy slab in such a beautiful place. So very LAME.

By acouncell
From: Estes Park, CO
Jul 6, 2010

I'm with Andy...though the climbing is harder than 5.0 but not by much. Seems odd to see so many bolts on relatively easy terrain.

I've spent a fair bit of time putting up routes, bolting ground up with a Bosch, rapping in, and/or drilling by hand. It takes about 20 seconds to bolt with a Bosch, about 20 minutes by hand in hard rock. Given the number of bolts, their proximity to each other and useable natural pro, and as Andy pointed out their liberal locations, I have a hard time believing these were put in by hand. I would lose my mind if I only climbed 30 feet per hour up a 900' route because I was over-bolting 5.5 terrain...I think I would literally lose it. But maybe that's just me, with the patience of fat kid in a candy store. Maybe these were all put in by hand. But it seems unlikely is all I'm saying. It's not really a big deal but being on National Park land, the use of battery-powered drills is a no-no. It'd be a shame to see our access/relationship in any way affected by folks ignoring these stipulations....

At least, thank God, whoever whacked in these bolts used good hardware. I may poo-poo the liberal use of bolts on this route from my high horse, but I'll probably still clip them anyway. Thanks for the hard work!

By goatboywonder
Jun 3, 2011
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a

Great route! I did not find the bolts of the first pitch to be lame at all. Granted, the 5.7 climbing is getting to the first bolt, but I found a 5.6 move here and there on friable rock. If this pitch had no bolts, you would be looking a 50 foot ground fall before you got any gear.

By goatboywonder
Jun 3, 2011
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a

On pitch 6, you can pull a sweet, "rock star" roof. After moving left off the belay, head up. After about 30 feet, you will see a clean 4 foot roof looming above you. Reach up, find the jugs, throw out a heel hook, and rock up! Probably 5.10+ or so.

By Eric Klammer
From: Boulder, CO
Jun 9, 2013
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a

Amazing route! Did 5 pitches, ending a little below the summit. Rapped the route with the lead line and a 5mm pull cord. Pitches 2 and 3 are some of the best I've done, perfect rock covered with glassy dishes and nobs. Another added bonus, we had the place to ourselves the entire the day!