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Camel Jockey
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Camel Jockey 

YDS: 5.13b French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 30 British: E7 6c

Type:  Sport, Chipped, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.13b French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 30 British: E7 6c [details]
FA: Hassan Saab
Page Views: 411
Submitted By: Monomaniac on Sep 21, 2009

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Camel Jockey climbs the center of the monolithic p...


Camel Jockey ascends a monolithic panel of slightly overhanging stone just left of Gunky. This is a beautiful looking wall for those who enjoy technical edging, an almost mini "To Bolt Or Not To Be". Up close the stone is not quite as impressive, but the unusual, cerebral movement makes this a worthwhile objective. Perhaps the best thing Camel Jockey has going for it is that it gets shade ~1:30pm, making it an ideal late afternoon project. Despite its diminutive height, this is a very sustained line with many difficult moves all the way to the chains.

Begin below a right-facing flake. The difficulties begin right off the ground with a brief boulder problem to reach the first good horizontal edge. After a quick shake the crux section begins with long opposition moves and tricky feet. A rightward traverse ends at the route's only really good rest. Another boulder problem leads to a sinker (often wasp-infested) two-finger pocket and more sequential movement to one last long move to a good jug just below the anchor.

This route is chipped. On one hand, one has to wonder if this route would have gone without the enhanced holds, and at what grade. On the other hand, the manufacturer put together a nice sequence of interesting moves that are a lot of fun to climb.


In the Camel Jockey dihedral, on the SE-facing panel immediately left of More Funky Than Gunky


~8 bolts to 2 Bolt Anchor. Stick clip recommended.

Photos of Camel Jockey Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Moving towards the sinker 2-finger.
Moving towards the sinker 2-finger.
Rock Climbing Photo: Above the main difficulties on Camel Jockey.
Above the main difficulties on Camel Jockey.

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By Skyler B
Feb 19, 2015

1 or 2 drilled pockets and maybe some altered crimps.. Still one of the best climbs I have ever done anywhere. Crimps and pockets the whole way. Pure beauty with a jug rest about half way up.

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