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DescriptionThe Camden Hills, on the west shore of the Penobscot bay, near Camden, Maine, have a variety of rock and ice climbing on a half-dozen small cliffs. While no Camden climbs are very long, some are of high quality. In particular, some of the ice climbs here are exceptional. Getting ThereAll of the Crags can be reached from pull-offs off of Route 52. The approaches range anywhere from 2 minutes to 1/2 hr. The ClassicsMountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Camden Hills:
Eqinox 5.5 Trad, 1 pitch, 100 feet Barretts Cove Cliff
Old Spice 5.6 R Trad, 1 pitch, 100 feet Barretts Cove Cliff
Charlotte's Crack 5.7 Trad, 2 pitches, 300 feet Barretts Cove Cliff
Bob's Route 5.7+ Trad, 1 pitch, 75 feet Barretts Cove Cliff
500 Pound Flakeout 5.7+ Trad, TR, 60 feet The Verticals
Exasperator 5.9 Trad, 1 pitch, 100 feet Ocean Lookout/ Upper megunt...
The Bolt Ladder 5.9 Sport, TR, 60 feet The Verticals
Diagonal Crack 5.9+ R Trad, TR, 60 feet The Verticals
Groovey Grubworm 5.9+ Trad, 1 pitch, 150 feet Ocean Lookout/ Upper megunt...
Old Stud 5.10a Sport, 1 pitch, 100 feet Barretts Cove Cliff
birds eye (aka- FB) 5.10- Sport, 1 pitch, 70 feet the out back
Obscure Object of Desire 5.10c Sport, 1 pitch, 50 feet Barretts Cove Cliff
After Seven 5.10c Sport, 1 pitch, 75 feet Barretts Cove Cliff
Prospero 5.10d Sport, 50 feet The Rampart
Kudzus Corner 5.10d Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 200 feet Ocean Lookout/ Upper megunt...
Dream Weaver 5.11a Sport, TR, 80 feet The Rampart
Running Free 5.11b Trad, 1 pitch, 100 feet Ocean Lookout/ Upper megunt...
Ariel 5.11d Sport The Rampart
Tilted Arc 5.12b Trad The Rampart
Renascence 5.12c Sport The Rampart
Featured Route For Camden Hills
Running Free 5.11b ME : Camden Hills : Ocean Lookout/ Upper megunt...
Just left of Play Misty is this wildly positioned and well protected route. Take a light rack (up to a #2 Camalot or equivalent) and many quickdraws. The first pitch (crux) climbs an obvious crack, thin at first, past two bolts and three fixed pins to a 2-bolt belay. The second pitch follows a finger crack right to a slab, then climbs straight up past three bolts to a small ledge (optional belay; same as Play Misty). From here, work right past four bolts up a steep headwall to fl...[more] Browse More Classics in ME |