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Camden Hills

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Barretts Cove Cliff 
Fireman's Ladder (of Rampart Area) 
Guide's Wall 
Hot Spot , Rock Climbing 
Hot Spot - Ice Climbing, The 
Jerry's Wall 
Left Cataract (mostly Ice), The 
Maiden Cliff 
Mt. Battie 
Ocean Lookout/ Upper megunticook cliffs 
Out Back, The 
Rampart, The 
Right Cataract (Ice & Bixler's Area), The 
Skyline Crag 
Verticals, The 
Rest Day:
Nearby Mountain Bike Rides

3. 22 Tacks Trail
A winding doubletrack, gently uphill the first half and gently downhill the second half. Near Camden, Maine
Maine Sport Race Loop
A great classic New England rooty, winding loop with no elevation change. Near Rockport, Maine
From MP's sister site: MTB Project

Camden Hills Rock Climbing 


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 44.2471, -69.0874 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 30,445
Administrators: Ladd, Robert Hall, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Matty Zane on Jun 1, 2008
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Description 

The Camden Hills, on the west shore of the Penobscot bay, near Camden, Maine, have a variety of rock and ice climbing on a half-dozen small cliffs. While no Camden climbs are very long, some are of high quality. In particular, some of the ice climbs here are exceptional.

The Camden hills are composed mainly of metamorphosed rock that can vary wildly in appearance.

Gear: A standard Camden rack for the trad routes ranges from mirco-nuts, to a 3.5" Friend. Most areas take mainly small gear. It should be kept in mind that while the majority of the climbs in Camden are not extremely difficult, finding adequate protection can be. Many of the climbs have substantial run-outs, so it is best to be solid at the grade before leading the climb.

Getting There 

All of the Crags can be reached from pull-offs off of Route 52. The approaches range anywhere from 2 minutes to 1/2 hr.

Climbing Season



Weather station 4.6 miles from here

137 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',14],['3 Stars',65],['2 Stars',47],['1 Star',8],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',16],['5.7',23],['5.8',13],['5.9',22],['5.10',21],['5.11',16],['5.12',15],['5.13',1],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Camden Hills

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Camden Hills:
Equinox   5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   Barretts Cove Cliff
Poison Ivy   5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13     Trad, 1 pitch, 150'   Barretts Cove Cliff
Clamdigger Crack   5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a     Trad, 1 pitch, 90'   Barretts Cove Cliff
Charlotte's Crack   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 2 pitches, 300'   Barretts Cove Cliff
funny farm   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, Sport, 40'   The Out Back
Harmonic Convergence   5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   Barretts Cove Cliff
Glory Hole   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, 60'   The Out Back
Spider (mid-cliff START)   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 90'   Barretts Cove Cliff
The Million Muppet March   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   Guide's Wall
Fourth of July (mid-cliff START)   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   Barretts Cove Cliff
Exasperator   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   Ocean Lookout/ Upper megunt...
The Bolt Ladder   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, TR, 60'   The Verticals
Quiet Room   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 40'   The Out Back
Diagonal Crack   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R     Trad, TR, 60'   The Verticals
Cowboy Bebop   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 40'   Guide's Wall
birds eye (aka- FB)   5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   The Out Back
Dream Weaver   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, TR, 80'   The Rampart
Obscure Object of Desire   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   Barretts Cove Cliff
Ariel   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Sport   The Rampart
voluntary madness   5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b     Sport, 60'   The Out Back
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Camden Hills

Featured Route For Camden Hills
Rock Climbing Photo: 1st half of Running Free

Running Free 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c  ME : Camden Hills : Ocean Lookout/ Upper megunt...
Just left of Play Misty is this wildly positioned and well protected route. Take a light rack (up to a #2 Camalot or equivalent) and many quickdraws. The first pitch (crux) climbs an obvious crack, thin at first, past two bolts and three fixed pins to a 2-bolt belay. The second pitch follows a finger crack right to a slab, then climbs straight up past three bolts to a small ledge (optional belay; same as Play Misty). From here, work right past four bolts up a steep headwall to fl...[more]   Browse More Classics in ME

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