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Camden Hills

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Barretts Cove Cliff 
Guide's Wall 
Mt. Battie 
Ocean Lookout 
Ocean Lookout/ Upper megunticook cliffs 
Rampart, The 
the out back 
Verticals, The 

Rest Day:
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From MP's sister site: MTB Project

Camden Hills 


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Location: 44.2471, -69.0874 View Map  Incorrect?
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Administrators: Ladd Raine, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Matty Zane on Jun 1, 2008
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Photo of Josh.

Description 

The Camden Hills, on the west shore of the Penobscot bay, near Camden, Maine, have a variety of rock and ice climbing on a half-dozen small cliffs. While no Camden climbs are very long, some are of high quality. In particular, some of the ice climbs here are exceptional.

The Camden hills are composed mainly of metamorphosed rock that can vary wildly in appearance.

Gear: A standard Camden rack for the trad routes ranges from mirco-nuts, to a 3.5" Friend. Most areas take mainly small gear. It should be kept in mind that while the majority of the climbs in Camden are not extremely difficult, finding adequate protection can be. Many of the climbs have substantial run-outs, so it is best to be solid at the grade before leading the climb.


Getting There 

All of the Crags can be reached from pull-offs off of Route 52. The approaches range anywhere from 2 minutes to 1/2 hr.


77 Total Routes


['4 Stars',7],['3 Stars',29],['2 Stars',32],['1 Star',7],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',7],['5.7',13],['5.8',7],['5.9',9],['5.10',14],['5.11',11],['5.12',13],['5.13',1],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Camden Hills:
Tower Gully    WI1     Ice, 300'   Mt. Battie
Eqinox   5.5 4b 13 IV+ MS 4a     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   Barretts Cove Cliff
Old Spice   5.6 4c 14 V S 4b R     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   Barretts Cove Cliff
Charlotte's Crack   5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b     Trad, 2 pitches, 300'   Barretts Cove Cliff
500 Pound Flakeout   5.7+ 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b     Trad, TR, 60'   The Verticals
The Bolt Ladder   5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a     Sport, TR, 60'   The Verticals
Diagonal Crack   5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a R     Trad, TR, 60'   The Verticals
Old Stud   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   Barretts Cove Cliff
Dream Weaver   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c     Sport, TR, 80'   The Rampart
voluntary madness   5.12d 7c 28 IX E6 6b     Sport, 60'   the out back
Browse More Classics in Camden Hills

Featured Route For Camden Hills
voluntary Madness 13a <br />photo by- ryan jay stanley

voluntary madness 5.12d 7c 28 IX E6 6b  ME : Camden Hills : the out back
be ready to work right off the ground! You will traverse right to the anchors of borderline after the 5th bolt end here for 12d or continue back up left to high anchor for 13a.there is a direct finish in the works that should ring in around 13c or d....[more]   Browse More Classics in ME

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