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Camden Hills

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Barretts Cove Cliff 
Cataracts, The 
Fireman's Ladder Area 
Guide's Wall 
Jerry's Wall 
Maiden Cliff 
Mt. Battie 
Ocean Lookout 
Ocean Lookout/ Upper megunticook cliffs 
Rampart, The 
the out back 
Verticals, The 
Rest Day:
Nearby Mountain Bike Rides

3. 22 Tacks Trail
A winding doubletrack, gently uphill the first half and gently downhill the second half. Near Rockland, Maine
Maine Sport Race Loop
A great classic New England rooty, winding loop with no elevation change. Near Rockland, Maine
From MP's sister site: MTB Project

Camden Hills Rock Climbing 

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Location: 44.2471, -69.0874 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 55,245
Administrators: Ladd, Robert Hall, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Matty Zane on Jun 1, 2008
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Best climbs for YOU in this area
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The Camden Hills, on the west shore of the Penobscot bay, near Camden, Maine, have a variety of rock and ice climbing on a half-dozen small cliffs. While no Camden climbs are very long, some are of high quality. In particular, some of the ice climbs here are exceptional.

The Camden hills are composed mainly of metamorphosed rock that can vary wildly in appearance.

Gear: A standard Camden rack for the trad routes ranges from mirco-nuts, to a 3.5" Friend. Most areas take mainly small gear. It should be kept in mind that while the majority of the climbs in Camden are not extremely difficult, finding adequate protection can be. Many of the climbs have substantial run-outs, so it is best to be solid at the grade before leading the climb.

Getting There 

All of the Crags can be reached from pull-offs off of Route 52. The approaches range anywhere from 2 minutes to 1/2 hr.

Climbing Season

Weather station 4.6 miles from here

97 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',7],['3 Stars',48],['2 Stars',34],['1 Star',6],['Bomb',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Camden Hills

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Camden Hills:
Tower Gully    WI1     Ice, 2 pitches, 300'   Mt. Battie
Old Spice   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   Barretts Cove Cliff
Charlotte's Crack   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 2 pitches, 300'   Barretts Cove Cliff
funny farm   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, Sport, 40'   the out back
Common Ground   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 50'   Guide's Wall
Harmonic Convergence   5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   Barretts Cove Cliff
500 Pound Flakeout   5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, TR, 60'   The Verticals
Glory Hole   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, 60'   the out back
The Million Muppet March   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   Guide's Wall
The Bolt Ladder   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, TR, 60'   The Verticals
Quiet Room   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 40'   the out back
Diagonal Crack   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R     Trad, TR, 60'   The Verticals
Cowboy Bebop   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 40'   Guide's Wall
Old Stud   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   Barretts Cove Cliff
birds eye (aka- FB)   5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   the out back
Dream Weaver   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, TR, 80'   The Rampart
voluntary madness   5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b     Sport, 60'   the out back
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Camden Hills

Featured Route For Camden Hills
Rock Climbing Photo: dave orsmond birds eye 10a

birds eye (aka- FB) 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a  ME : Camden Hills : the out back
fun climbing up to a crux at 2/3 height. can seem a little harder the first time u try it!...[more]   Browse More Classics in ME

Comments on Camden Hills Add Comment
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By SamFelch
Jun 7, 2015
Hi there, I'm in the midcoast region until June 28th, 2015 and am looking for a climbing partner. Hit me up if you would like to go out anywhere my email is I've climbed a bunch at barrets and would be psyched to explore other zones!

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