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Camden Hills
Edelweiss Speleo Caving Rope

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Giro Monica Bike Glove - Women's

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Metolius Monster 9.2mm Dry Rope- 100m

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Tenaya RA Climbing Shoe - Men's

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Rio Trout Light Touch Fly Line WF4F

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Sugoi RPM Tri Short - Women's

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CAMP Ball Nut # 3

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Callaway Forged Golf Wedge 52 Degrees

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$104.99

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Barretts Cove Cliff 
Ocean Lookout 
Ocean Lookout/ Upper megunticook cliffs 
Rampart, The 
the out back 
Verticals, The 

Camden Hills 


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Administrators: Ladd Raine, Tom Erickson
Submitted By: Matty Zane on Jun 1, 2008

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Old Stud

Description 

The Camden Hills, on the west shore of the Penobscot bay, near Camden, Maine, have a variety of rock and ice climbing on a half-dozen small cliffs. While no Camden climbs are very long, some are of high quality. In particular, some of the ice climbs here are exceptional.

The Camden hills are composed mainly of metamorphosed rock that can vary wildly in appearance.

Gear: A standard Camden rack for the trad routes ranges from mirco-nuts, to a 3.5" Friend. Most areas take mainly small gear. It should be kept in mind that while the majority of the climbs in Camden are not extremely difficult, finding adequate protection can be. Many of the climbs have substantial run-outs, so it is best to be solid at the grade before leading the climb.


Getting There 

All of the Crags can be reached from pull-offs off of Route 52. The approaches range anywhere from 2 minutes to 1/2 hr.


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Camden Hills:
Eqinox   5.5     Trad, 1 pitch, 100 feet   Barretts Cove Cliff
Old Spice   5.6 R     Trad, 1 pitch, 100 feet   Barretts Cove Cliff
Charlotte's Crack   5.7     Trad, 2 pitches, 300 feet   Barretts Cove Cliff
Bob's Route   5.7+     Trad, 1 pitch, 75 feet   Barretts Cove Cliff
500 Pound Flakeout   5.7+     Trad, TR, 60 feet   The Verticals
Exasperator   5.9     Trad, 1 pitch, 100 feet   Ocean Lookout/ Upper megunt...
The Bolt Ladder   5.9     Sport, TR, 60 feet   The Verticals
Diagonal Crack   5.9+ R     Trad, TR, 60 feet   The Verticals
Groovey Grubworm   5.9+     Trad, 1 pitch, 150 feet   Ocean Lookout/ Upper megunt...
Old Stud   5.10a     Sport, 1 pitch, 100 feet   Barretts Cove Cliff
birds eye (aka- FB)   5.10-     Sport, 1 pitch, 70 feet   the out back
Obscure Object of Desire   5.10c     Sport, 1 pitch, 50 feet   Barretts Cove Cliff
After Seven   5.10c     Sport, 1 pitch, 75 feet   Barretts Cove Cliff
Prospero   5.10d     Sport, 50 feet   The Rampart
Kudzus Corner   5.10d     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 200 feet   Ocean Lookout/ Upper megunt...
Dream Weaver   5.11a     Sport, TR, 80 feet   The Rampart
Running Free   5.11b     Trad, 1 pitch, 100 feet   Ocean Lookout/ Upper megunt...
Ariel   5.11d     Sport   The Rampart
Tilted Arc   5.12b     Trad   The Rampart
Renascence   5.12c     Sport   The Rampart
Browse More Classics in Camden Hills

Featured Route For Camden Hills
1st half of Running Free

Running Free 5.11b  ME : Camden Hills : Ocean Lookout/ Upper megunt...
Just left of Play Misty is this wildly positioned and well protected route. Take a light rack (up to a #2 Camalot or equivalent) and many quickdraws. The first pitch (crux) climbs an obvious crack, thin at first, past two bolts and three fixed pins to a 2-bolt belay. The second pitch follows a finger crack right to a slab, then climbs straight up past three bolts to a small ledge (optional belay; same as Play Misty). From here, work right past four bolts up a steep headwall to fl...[more]   Browse More Classics in ME