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Camber 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Jim Dunn, Jeff Pheasent & Ed Sklar, November 1978
Page Views: 5,380
Submitted By: lee hansche on Feb 16, 2007
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Travis Piper on Camber.

Description 

This is one of my favorite climbs I've ever done. So much exposure, an intricate sequence, and good protection (at the crux, anyway) make it practically perfect in every way. Though 5.11b may seem a low grade by modern standards, you will find that you will work for this one both mentally and physically.

Pitch 1: From the anchor at the top of the Saigon's, head up and left past a bolt, run it out a little farther left to another bolt clip this with a long runner, and run it out up and right to gain more bolts that are closer together (the runouts at the base are what keeps this route from being a sport climb). It may be 5.8R in parts.

An interesting sub-crux will be tricky though finding the crimps and high stepping will get you through. The corner above to the mantel at the anchor is the true crux, and it might take a while to work it out. The falls are safe though a bit airy.

Pitch 2: This pitch is commonly known as Reverse Camber. Up the slab (5.10b) past drilled pins, then break left in to a crack that leads to a notch to finish. Build a belay at the top in a hand-size crack.


Location 

Just above the anchor for Miss Saigon. Camber climbs through the roof via a nice corner.


Protection 

Pitch one: Mostly bolts, so bring draws and at least one long sling. Maybe a TCU as you leave the ledge. Bolted belay

Pitch two: 2 drilled pins then trad gear. Bring draws and a standard rack.



Photos of Camber Slideshow Add Photo
Nuria finishing up the last pitch
Nuria finishing up the last pitch
this is me finishing up camber... photo by Tim Martel
this is me finishing up camber... photo by Tim Mar...
Sam Todzia and Nuria Anguita-Bates TRing Reverse Camber.
Sam Todzia and Nuria Anguita-Bates TRing Reverse C...
sticking the crux move
sticking the crux move
Andrew Freeman on Camber
Andrew Freeman on Camber
This photo was taken from the tourist point where peanut gallery tops out. You can see the roof on camber.
BETA PHOTO: This photo was taken from the tourist point where ...
Comments on Camber Add Comment
Show which comments
By Ladd Raine
Administrator
From: Plymouth, NH
Apr 12, 2007

If the crux seems tricky borrow and watch a copy of Uncommon Ground (it features the route's crux sequence)

By KCP
From: Eldorado Springs, CO
Aug 22, 2007
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c

This is a must-do route in this area, and I think 11b is spot on.

By john strand
From: southern colo
Jun 1, 2008

The actual original Camber goes right from the belay towards a tree and then finishes above. The P2 described is Reverse Camber, done originally by Webster around 1980. You can also stay out of the crack at the top (TR) at around 11C.
Room With A View is also right in front of you and although a bit runout, it is a good TR at 11D.

By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Jun 1, 2008

thanks for noting that... most folks finish on reverse camber these days so i put that in the description... im glad you set it straight...

By CCliffe
Jun 1, 2011

after the first bolt on P1 you can climb strait up (and slightly left) to the fourth bolt to avoid going way left ( where the bolts go). its prob a good 30' b/t the bolts and is pretty heady but the moves are not terrible (maybe one 5.9ish move in there)

By john strand
From: southern colo
Jun 30, 2011

Right, the original camber and Tourist treat starts are often confused. The camber start is more run out.