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Calypso III 

YDS: 5.4 French: 4a Ewbanks: 12 UIAA: IV British: VD 3c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ British: MS 4a [details]
FA: Bob Molzon, Dick Shori, 1977
Season: Faces S/SE and gets some shade from trees
Page Views: 1,764
Submitted By: Tony B on Feb 14, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (53)
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Climbing up Calypso III on a hot august day

Description 

A good climb despite being wide up top. Perhaps the best easy introduction to offwidth around, the top will fit and arm and perhaps your head. Many a gumby leader has survived learning to lead on this route even before the advent of what we refer to as 'large cams' these days.
The traditional grade of this climb was a sandbag at 5.2.


Location 

Walk left in the main amphitheatre about 1/2 way to the end, passing the distinctive American Wall and American Crack. Continue on the trail passing between a large flat boulder and the main cliff and around a small protrudance a short distance. You will immediately pass a left-facing corner with a wide crack up top. THis is "Calypso III, 5.4". Just to the left further still you will see a right leaning crack with a small tree growing on a chockstone near the bottom of it, "Snake 5.8".


Protection 

A rack of cams from small to as large as you have, provided you want gear up top. Most people just run the top out a little,as it is not difficult.



Photos of Calypso III Slideshow Add Photo
Pretty sweet fist crack! Ran it out due to not bringing larger cams
Pretty sweet fist crack! Ran it out due to not bri...
Comments on Calypso III Add Comment
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By Chris Chaney
From: Arvada, Colorado
Feb 21, 2007

This route used to be much dirtier. Since bolt anchors were placed and climbers don't have to top out in the sand, the route stays much cleaner. Definitely one of the most popular routes at the wall. If you want to sew it up, bring a rack up to #4 or #4.5 or if you want to do it all passive bring a set of stoppers and a set of hexes up to #11. Long slings help no matter what, as the placements tend to be deep up high.

By saxfiend
Administrator
From: Decatur, GA
Oct 27, 2008
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b

This is where I found out what sandbagging at RRG is all about. Hard to believe it could ever have been considered 5.2. Fun and challenging lead.

By sunder
From: Alsip, Il
Aug 30, 2010
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V S 4b

Fun route. The hardest part is the fist 8 feet. Then continue to climb the crack. The top have decide to climb the face or continue on the crack. Click up left and step over to the anchors you don't need to top out to lower off. Starts as small gear and goes up to a #4 and #5 at the top.

By Matt Baer
Apr 14, 2012
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V S 4b

My first Proper trad lead and it was real fun! Good practice placing gear in the crack while on good face holds. Pulling over the bulge at the top was heady since it wouldn't take any gear but fun none the less.

By Michael McClarty
Mar 20, 2013

fun route with a semi-boulder V1 start if you go direct. didn't bring any 4's up? it gets pretty runout but as long as you've got toes deep in the crack your not going anywhere and options open up. really fun for a slab and good for a quick warmup.