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Fortress Wall
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Calypso II 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
FA: Bob Molzon, Dick Shori - 1977
Page Views: 1,387
Submitted By: lee hansche on Mar 27, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (52)
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BETA PHOTO: Leading Calypso II. Got swarmed by bees and had to...

Description 

Climb the easy looking crack all the way to the bolted anchors... Though it is 5.6 you might find that it makes you think a little... the crux is roughly in the middle and involves jamming an some precise foot work...

Protects well...

Location 

Look for the flat topped boulder in front of a nice corner split by a crack roughly in the center of the cliff... Calypso II climbs this crack...

Protection 

Normal rack to wide hand sized cams... bolt anchor...


Photos of Calypso II Slideshow Add Photo
Mike on Calypso II
Mike on Calypso II
My dad having a good time on Calypso II
My dad having a good time on Calypso II
James jammin' while we warm up...
James jammin' while we warm up...
A sequence of My dad reaching for the next jam...
A sequence of My dad reaching for the next jam...
Calypso II
Calypso II
one more of dad (Ernie Hansche) on Calypso II...
one more of dad (Ernie Hansche) on Calypso II...
Looking up from the base of the climb. It's pretty thin until you get up to the point where the crack starts to curve back to the left (about half way up in this picture).
Looking up from the base of the climb. It's pretty...

Comments on Calypso II Add Comment
Show which comments
By Casey the "Renaissance Man"
Jul 11, 2012

Fun line with that little balance move in the center. If you want, run it all passive, it takes stoppers well and some hexes up top. Watch for the loose blocks up top.
By Andrew G
Oct 28, 2013

Fun warm up. Awkward placement for the anchors.
By Mark Thesing
From: Central Indiana
Aug 17, 2014

It was pretty dirty when I did it. Other than that, there were a lot of good stances to work out the protection. While I used a few cams on it, this route could easily go all the way on passive protection. I found it a little thin at the bottom but opened up to hand size as you got towards the crux. I was able to lace it up real tight from the ground up through the crux. From the top of the crux to the ledge I pretty much ran this section out but the crack still offered plenty of placements that I opted to bypass.