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Wind Tower - SW Face
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Wind Tower Slab 

Calypso Direct 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c

   
Type: Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Pat Ament and Larry Dalke, 1965
Page Views: 4,440
Submitted By: M.Morley on Jun 12, 2003
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A climber turning the 5.8 roof of Calypso Direct w...

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Climbing reopened after flood MORE INFO >>>

Description 

A fun alternate exit for Calypso. Start up Calypso. At the roof where Calypso heads right, cut up and left instead through a steep crack (5.8) up to a ledge with a large pine tree and 2-bolt anchor with rap rings (this is the top of the first pitch of Tagger). Rap 75' from here to the ground or continue up Tigger (5.5), Tagger (5.10c), Across the River from Butt Hair (5.9), or the G.Y. Dihedral (5.8 - not recommended) to the walk-off ledge.

See existing comments on Calypso for additional beta.


Protection 

Standard rack.



Photos of Calypso Direct Slideshow Add Photo
The Southwest face of the Wind Tower, showing the location of the new bolted rappel anchor.
BETA PHOTO: The Southwest face of the Wind Tower, showing the ...
The crux sequence.
The crux sequence.
pulling the roof
pulling the roof
Brenda Leach stemmed out above the roof.
Brenda Leach stemmed out above the roof.
Looking down it....
Looking down it....
Comments on Calypso Direct Add Comment
Show which comments
By Ernie Port
From: Boulder, Colorado
Dec 11, 2003

Another option for P2 of this variation... once you've cleared the roof and gained the ledge above, climb the slab straight up another 20' or so, traverse right, then down another 20' to gain the ramp for linking this with Reggae. The traverse is easy, but runnout. A solid black Alien was my only placement...

By Jason Shatek
Nov 3, 2004

This is a fun alternative to Calypso with a bit more spice! The overhang is a lot of fun to go over! My first 5.8. On a gear note, as you are going over the overhang to the right of the crack and up is a pocket that takes a red alien and protects well through the crux. Watch out though, on the overhang you have to lieback on a really good hold that felt solid but I noticed cracks all the way around it. A fantastic route!

By Blitzo
Sep 12, 2006

A fun route!

By rob.calm
From: Loveland, Colorado
Jun 4, 2010
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c

Another alternate for P2 is Roofed Out, which makes for a nice 2-pitch climb. Another comment on gear. One can climb up to the R of the roof getting high enough to set 0.5 Camalot in a horizontal crack that is on the L. Either finish the route from there (~5.9) or downclimb after setting the protection and climb up the L side of the roof (the usual way).