Over the past 40 years there have been several closures of this property to climbing.
Currently, climbers are welcome visitors in part because of Utah's Land Owner Liability Law and the work of local climbers to preserve access.
In 1998 through 2000 this area was quarried and is presently under restoration and re-vegetation. The climbers' trail goes through part of this area. Please stay on the trail so that this area can recover.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
Callitwhatyouplease is the next major crack system right of the obvious Bushwhack Crack. The crack doesn't touch the ground, so it is necessary to climb for 30 feet or so through hollow flakes. Pro can be placed, however, making the opening safe.
Climb through the flakes, then traverse right to the main crack system. Follow this all the way until a set of chains. On the way, a couple of pitons are encountered, and then the crack widens to make the 5.8 crux. Another touchy move up top brings one to the top.
Rap with one rope (60m) down the gully to the right. It might also reach straight down the face, but I am not sure.
Standard Rack. I placed sizes from small up to a 3.5 camalot. The wide section narrows near the back which makes it not require too much big gear.
A fun offwidth? As this route demonstrates... it IS possible! The last 5.8 move was a big surprise and felt pretty hard. A 60m rope, with care, will get you into the trees on the right side of the base of the climb.
Took my wife on this today for her first "true crack" route. Needless to say, this may not have been the best choice, as she took 2 hours, cursed repeatedly, and moved one inch at a time. However, when she got to the top with her only falls doing the face sequence through the flakes, she was very proud of herself....beat up, but proud of herself. She may not do another wide crack for a bit, but she did this one.
This line was incredible. This is one of the best off-width sections that I have ever done. My favorite was the arm bars and knee jam section. Perhaps because I have never felt such a solid knee jam, where I could just lean back and go no hands. I started off caving, where this is quite common, so I ate it up. I know many who hate OW's. The last few moves are a bit dicey, but it isn't too difficult to sit on the horn.
I found that the rock quality in the back of the OW was not that great, it seemed to crumble around my cams. However, this could also be that it is just kind of dirty as well. I took 2 #4 Friends and wished I had taken at least 3. Fun route but be careful what way you climb the OW section.
By Woodson From: Park City, Ut. May 26, 2009 rating: 5.85b16VI-15HVS 4c
Wow! Indeed a fun offwidth! For some reason the first 5.6 move down low was touchier than the actual chickenhead crux for me. Go figure...The pro is excellent and there are still 2 pins at the bottom of the crack.
I really enjoyed this climb, my friend lead it today. I'd like to go back and lead it next time. Anyways I thought that move with the chicken head was awesome where you basically brought your foot all the way up to your hand on the chicken head. I thought it was a really fun crack climb, lots of bomber foot jams. The only part I felt was dicey was the last move, it was pretty awkward and the foot jam was a little precarious.
By Alex Quitiquit From: Salt Lake City Apr 22, 2012 rating: 5.8-5b16VI-14VS 4c
Sweet route! I can understand the 2.7 stars for the fact that the route can't be rapped with a 60 (you have to rap into the 4th class gully at the start) and we experienced a micro epic when the rope got stuck around a chicken.
The offwidth is one of the easiest in the canyon. Feels less technical than crescent crack ... takes a bomber #3 BD that can also be walked. The bottom protects well with nuts.
The anchors on this route need to be replaced. One of the bolts can be wiggled and slightly pulled out of its hole. The other bolt is a spinner and also somewhat shady. I backed it up for the rappel with a sling around the chicken head near the anchor.
Where are the anchors???? My guide book says there is supposed to be an anchor on a huge tree, the only tree is across the gully. The only bolt anchors I saw were at the top of "chicken little" which caused a huge amount of rope drag.
Not that it wasn't just gaping enough to require some sweat and wide techniques from me, but I think this could be considered offwidth lite.
You'll probably want to walk a #4 through that part, but I was glad I judiciously placed smaller pieces in the back of that crack when possible and preserved the 4 (as well as my #2) for the end.
Overall more difficult than Bushwhack (even in the non-wide sections). Fun to ride the chickenhead before topping out. But I wonder... how many partners has that chickenhead had?
By Ryan Arnold May 13, 2014 rating: 5.8+5b16VI-15HVS 4c
Harder than Crack in the Woods. I brought a number of small cams, a #1, #2, #3, #3.5 and #4, and nuts. Wished for a few more large cams for the OW. It's a full 35m so rack big!
By Jake Billitteri From: Salt Lake City, Utah May 27, 2014 rating: 5.85b16VI-15HVS 4c
As a beginning trad leader, I felt a little uneasy on the flaky section at the bottom of this climb. However, I had a blast once I reached the offwidth and was able to cruise the rest of the climb on knee jams and armbars. In my opinion this is the best climb that I have done in Schoolroom thus far.