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Many Pines Buttress
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Callipigeanous Direct T 
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V8 T,TR 

Callipigeanous Direct 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c PG13

   
Type:  Trad
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: First Lead: Pete Cleveland
Page Views: 1,355
Submitted By: JJ Schlick on Sep 27, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (17)
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Nick Rhoads, searching for the great gear Huston t...

Description 

A classic DL lead for the grade. Start out on Calli-P regular. Once you hit the ledge, stick in a couple of nuts in the verical seam/crack above you. Climb straight up over edges and side pulls to very commiting move up high. Don't blow it!


Location 

Right of Michaels P.


Protection 

assortment of small cams, wires.



Photos of Callipigeanous Direct Slideshow Add Photo
Nick in motion
Nick in motion
Callipigeanous Direct, Devil's Lake
Callipigeanous Direct, Devil's Lake
Leading Callpigneous Direct,Steve S.
Leading Callpigneous Direct,Steve S.
Arturo leading Callipigneous.
Arturo leading Callipigneous.
Climber on Callipigeanous Direct at Devil's Lake
Climber on Callipigeanous Direct at Devil's Lake
Bob Horan on another ascent of Calipigeonous.
Bob Horan on another ascent of Calipigeonous.
Excellent rest before tackling the steep, pumpy crux of Callipigeanous Direct.  Those with good balance will actually be rewarded with a no-hands rest.
Excellent rest before tackling the steep, pumpy cr...
Comments on Callipigeanous Direct Add Comment
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By Jesse Bond
Nov 27, 2006

Jeremy,

If you can clarify a bit--which move are you talking about having the potential for a big fall if you blow it? Is it transitioning from the sidepulls to that more positive rail (crux moves?) or is it something higher up?

I'm guessing the gear you put in from that big ledge is the last thing you get until you dispense with those moves on the sidepulls, but how are your options after that? It seemed to slack off a bit in that upper section...but I guess it's possible I wandered too far left at some point and ended up on Michael's Project to finish...

With a moderate start and harder climbing up high, it seems this route would be a reasonably approachable lead for the grade, but you've definitely got me wondering about the upper sections. Seems like most parts of the route would take pretty good gear, though I could see things getting dicey at the crux. I'd love to hear more specifics if you or anyone else feels like sharing.

Thanks a bunch.

By Burt Lindquist
Administrator
From: Madison, WI
Nov 27, 2006

You can get good wires in about chin level as your standing on the ledge after pulling the lower crack moves. After that there is no gear (used to be a fixed pin - that was snapped off????) until one pulls all the way to the detached block jug hold above the crux. That is a distance of about 10 feet maybe??? The wires will be at or just below your feet as one works the crux sequence. and will be maybe 5-8 Ft below your feet after the jug at crux end is reached. If one falls at the crux moves the wires will more then adequately keep you off the ground (with a good belay and good placement of the wires of course) but it would require one to be cautious of the ledge. If you fall at the crux sequence make sure to also push out and away from the rock so the ledge is missed. The crux moves are quite fun and involve of bit of shuffling of the feet to best position ones self to use the best holds quickly and efficiently.

By Jesse Bond
Nov 27, 2006

Thanks Burt--that seems about in line with where I thought you'd be able to get gear. Though I guess hearing your estimates of how far above your gear you'd be, and the fact that you're committed to getting to the detached block before you can get more gear makes it not for the faint at heart.

And the ledge is somewhat worrisome.

By Tradoholic
Aug 29, 2009
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13

I got in a #5 Astro Nut in a small seam a little to the right from the first crux Gaston. Which I think is where Huston had those nuts if I recall correctly. I seemed a little too flaring for those nuts you describe though. Climbing up from the ledge, placing it, then down climbing back to the ledge was an excellent strategy.
"relatively well-protected route" is your world maybe, Huston.

By Tradoholic
Aug 31, 2009
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13

Thank you for the clarification Huston...sandbagger.

By Andy Hansen
From: Longmont, Colorado
May 29, 2012
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13

Good cams can be placed above the ledge. From there a purple DMM brass offset can be slid and firmly set to provide adequate protection for the crux. There's a perfect slot for this right when you're setting up for the crux- and you can climb back down to the ledge after you've placed it. Any other nuts (aside from Rhoads' Astro nut) might not work as well.

Overall this climb is just OK. The crux moves are excellent and super committing but the initial crack at the start is awkward and the climbing to finish is lack luster.