Callipigeanous Direct 

Jeremy,

If you can clarify a bit--which move are you talking about having the potential for a big fall if you blow it? Is it transitioning from the sidepulls to that more positive rail (crux moves?) or is it something higher up?

I'm guessing the gear you put in from that big ledge is the last thing you get until you dispense with those moves on the sidepulls, but how are your options after that? It seemed to slack off a bit in that upper section...but I guess it's possible I wandered too far left at some point and ended up on Michael's Project to finish...

With a moderate start and harder climbing up high, it seems this route would be a reasonably approachable lead for the grade, but you've definitely got me wondering about the upper sections. Seems like most parts of the route would take pretty good gear, though I could see things getting dicey at the crux. I'd love to hear more specifics if you or anyone else feels like sharing.

Thanks a bunch.

You can get good wires in about chin level as your standing on the ledge after pulling the lower crack moves. After that there is no gear (used to be a fixed pin - that was snapped off????) until one pulls all the way to the detached block jug hold above the crux. That is a distance of about 10 feet maybe??? The wires will be at or just below your feet as one works the crux sequence. and will be maybe 5-8 Ft below your feet after the jug at crux end is reached. If one falls at the crux moves the wires will more then adequately keep you off the ground (with a good belay and good placement of the wires of course) but it would require one to be cautious of the ledge. If you fall at the crux sequence make sure to also push out and away from the rock so the ledge is missed. The crux moves are quite fun and involve of bit of shuffling of the feet to best position ones self to use the best holds quickly and efficiently.

Thanks Burt--that seems about in line with where I thought you'd be able to get gear. Though I guess hearing your estimates of how far above your gear you'd be, and the fact that you're committed to getting to the detached block before you can get more gear makes it not for the faint at heart.

And the ledge is somewhat worrisome.

I got in a #5 Astro Nut in a small seam a little to the right from the first crux Gaston. Which I think is where Huston had those nuts if I recall correctly. I seemed a little too flaring for those nuts you describe though. Climbing up from the ledge, placing it, then down climbing back to the ledge was an excellent strategy.
"relatively well-protected route" is your world maybe, Huston.

Thank you for the clarification Huston...sandbagger.

Good cams can be placed above the ledge. From there a purple DMM brass offset can be slid and firmly set to provide adequate protection for the crux. There's a perfect slot for this right when you're setting up for the crux- and you can climb back down to the ledge after you've placed it. Any other nuts (aside from Rhoads' Astro nut) might not work as well.

Overall this climb is just OK. The crux moves are excellent and super committing but the initial crack at the start is awkward and the climbing to finish is lack luster.