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Callipigeanous Direct 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c PG13

   
Type:  Trad
Original:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c PG13 [details]
FA: First Lead: Pete Cleveland
Page Views: 1,713
Submitted By: JJ Schlick on Sep 27, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (20)
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Nick Rhoads, searching for the great gear Huston t...

Description 

A classic DL lead for the grade. Start out on Calli-P regular. Once you hit the ledge, stick in a couple of nuts in the verical seam/crack above you. Climb straight up over edges and side pulls to very commiting move up high. Don't blow it!

Location 

Right of Michaels P.

Protection 

assortment of small cams, wires.


Photos of Callipigeanous Direct Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Leading Callpigneous Direct,Steve S.
Leading Callpigneous Direct,Steve S.
Rock Climbing Photo: Bonamici, flashing callipigeanous direct.
Bonamici, flashing callipigeanous direct.
Rock Climbing Photo: Nick in motion
Nick in motion
Rock Climbing Photo: Callipigeanous Direct, Devil's Lake
Callipigeanous Direct, Devil's Lake
Rock Climbing Photo: Arturo leading Callipigneous.
Arturo leading Callipigneous.
Rock Climbing Photo: Bob Horan on another ascent of Calipigeonous.
Bob Horan on another ascent of Calipigeonous.
Rock Climbing Photo: Excellent rest before tackling the steep, pumpy cr...
Excellent rest before tackling the steep, pumpy cr...
Rock Climbing Photo: Climber on Callipigeanous Direct at Devil's Lake
Climber on Callipigeanous Direct at Devil's Lake

Comments on Callipigeanous Direct Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Oct 26, 2015
By Jesse Bond
Nov 27, 2006

Jeremy,

If you can clarify a bit--which move are you talking about having the potential for a big fall if you blow it? Is it transitioning from the sidepulls to that more positive rail (crux moves?) or is it something higher up?

I'm guessing the gear you put in from that big ledge is the last thing you get until you dispense with those moves on the sidepulls, but how are your options after that? It seemed to slack off a bit in that upper section...but I guess it's possible I wandered too far left at some point and ended up on Michael's Project to finish...

With a moderate start and harder climbing up high, it seems this route would be a reasonably approachable lead for the grade, but you've definitely got me wondering about the upper sections. Seems like most parts of the route would take pretty good gear, though I could see things getting dicey at the crux. I'd love to hear more specifics if you or anyone else feels like sharing.

Thanks a bunch.
By Burt Lindquist
Administrator
From: Madison, WI
Nov 27, 2006

You can get good wires in about chin level as your standing on the ledge after pulling the lower crack moves. After that there is no gear (used to be a fixed pin - that was snapped off????) until one pulls all the way to the detached block jug hold above the crux. That is a distance of about 10 feet maybe??? The wires will be at or just below your feet as one works the crux sequence. and will be maybe 5-8 Ft below your feet after the jug at crux end is reached. If one falls at the crux moves the wires will more then adequately keep you off the ground (with a good belay and good placement of the wires of course) but it would require one to be cautious of the ledge. If you fall at the crux sequence make sure to also push out and away from the rock so the ledge is missed. The crux moves are quite fun and involve of bit of shuffling of the feet to best position ones self to use the best holds quickly and efficiently.
By Jesse Bond
Nov 27, 2006

Thanks Burt--that seems about in line with where I thought you'd be able to get gear. Though I guess hearing your estimates of how far above your gear you'd be, and the fact that you're committed to getting to the detached block before you can get more gear makes it not for the faint at heart.

And the ledge is somewhat worrisome.
By Tradoholic
Aug 29, 2009
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13

I got in a #5 Astro Nut in a small seam a little to the right from the first crux Gaston. Which I think is where Huston had those nuts if I recall correctly. I seemed a little too flaring for those nuts you describe though. Climbing up from the ledge, placing it, then down climbing back to the ledge was an excellent strategy.
"relatively well-protected route" is your world maybe, Huston.
By Tradoholic
Aug 31, 2009
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13

Thank you for the clarification Huston...sandbagger.
By Andy Hansen
From: Longmont, Colorado
May 29, 2012
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13

Good cams can be placed above the ledge. From there a purple DMM brass offset can be slid and firmly set to provide adequate protection for the crux. There's a perfect slot for this right when you're setting up for the crux- and you can climb back down to the ledge after you've placed it. Any other nuts (aside from Rhoads' Astro nut) might not work as well.

Overall this climb is just OK. The crux moves are excellent and super committing but the initial crack at the start is awkward and the climbing to finish is lack luster.
By Chris treggE
Administrator
From: Madison, WI
Oct 12, 2015
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13

Loads of good beta on here, but I'll throw in that a purple superlight Wild Country rock fits nicely in the tiny seam in the triangle at mid-crux. It's doubtful you would generate 4kn of force with a fall on the crux move, and it should keep you from breaking your ankles on the ledge if you were unlucky enough to come off going for the ledge.
By jon jugenheimer
From: Madison
Oct 26, 2015

After the send, please take a moment to scrub all the tick marks that placed.
By Burt Lindquist
Administrator
From: Madison, WI
Oct 26, 2015

I saw distinct and highly visible little square tick marks left all the way up both Bagatelle and Phlogiston this weekend as well. Doesn't really bother me much at all but I did notice.
By Chris treggE
Administrator
From: Madison, WI
Oct 26, 2015
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13

And the sign says "beanie-wearing pad people, not welcome here"
So I tucked my weed up into my chalk and I went to ask the beta for gear -
He says "you look like a fine trad climber, why don't you stay?"
So I show him my pad and say "Imagine Dad! Me, giving you a belay?"

Ticks, ticks, everywhere are ticks
Fuckin up my onsight, left by those dicks
Do this, don't do that, now scrub off your ticks!
By Chris treggE
Administrator
From: Madison, WI
Oct 26, 2015
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13

I will also mention that I belayed for both Bagatelle and Phlogiston last weekend, and I commented that I was a bit surprised that I couldn't see a single tick mark from the belay stance on either climb. I was told there were actually 2 small ones on the Bag and one on Phlog. Definitely not all ticked up...
By Burt Lindquist
Administrator
From: Madison, WI
Oct 26, 2015

Huh? I may have been seeing things or maybe just over stated. I was wondering why the ones I really for sure saw weren't really washing off in the solid rain I was standing in. Did you think that mash up Chris. Pretty dam funny. I left tick marks on a couple of 5.10s over at the West Bluff myself recently. I am bad and rarely boulder myself...
By Chris treggE
Administrator
From: Madison, WI
Oct 26, 2015
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13

Heh. Yeah. Work sucked today.

I'm guilty of being a ticker, sadly. I assume my ticks from a few weeks ago on calliP-D washed off with the rain but who knows. At least we live here and not red rocks or the RRG. I assume those places never wash off. As Bart Simpson says, "I can't promise I'll try but I'll try to try" (to brush my ticks off).
By Burt Lindquist
Administrator
From: Madison, WI
Oct 26, 2015

I was staring at Bagatelle for probably my 100th time on Saturday but this time I was looking extra carefully to see where these "mysterious" gear placements are..... amazing...... although I do remember once back in the 80's watching a DLFA dude solo aid it with just hooks and knife blades that were hand placed... I was in awe then too.
By jon jugenheimer
From: Madison
Oct 26, 2015

very entertaining!

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