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For some reason, I hate to give tons of stars to every single route at Index, but I really have little choice sometimes. This is another gem with a storied recent history (see my comment below). A somewhat scruffy start with some natural gear leads to a steep, aesthetic face. Sustained, slightly runout 5.10/11 leads past three bolts and some gear to a stance. The difficulties increase from here until a mind-melting Index friction crux is encountered. The Cramer guide notes that temperature is a concern and this is no idle observation: either wait for a cool day or keep some liquid nitrogen handy for this one.
This is the second route left of Davis Holland, beginning in a scruffy looking crack/ledge system before departing right onto a steep, clean bolted face.
Bolted except for the very beginning and a 20 foot section in the middle of the route. Bring cams to red C4 and small to medium nuts, plus 12 quickdraws. If a PG/R rating were available, the first bolted section probably would deserve it. The anchor at the top may appear strange but it is a 1/2" bolt chained vertically to an eye bolt with a gigantic quick link on it: you could probably hang an aircraft carrier from this rig.
Jan 13, 2012
The original bolt hangers were aluminum Kong/Bonatti hangers from the 90's. Coupled with the steel bolt, the aluminum corroded preferentially into a dangerous wafer cake of metal that, as a good friend of mine learned, wouldn't even hold body weight. After hanging on the third bolt about 60-65 feet off the ground the hanger peeled off, sending him flying. The next hanger broke as well and all of a sudden, the ground was coming up fast. His belayer must have reeled in some slack from this one, because the first bolt is certainly less than half the height of the third. Somehow, the final bolt caught his fall and the result was a chipped elbow bone from hitting a ledge on the initial section of the climb. The bolts have since been replaced, but the remnants of the old hangers are still there to teach us about an important metallurgical property known as galvanic corrosion.