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Rodent Ranch
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Callalo 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
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Page Views: 497
Submitted By: Spencer Weiler on Jul 8, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
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Description 

While the Northern Utah climbing book gives this no stars, and some might feel the same way, I think its the best one at the crag because of its varied traditional feel. 4 star classic? Not really, but its one of the best I've done in Logan. Casey Hyer must have just missed this gem.

Climb the right leaning crack up through a juggy overhung section, followed by exciting finger jams with perfect positive feet to the crux lieback/undercling around a bulge on slippery yellow rock. Follow the low angle face to the chains. You can stem, chimney, jam, lieback, jug haul, and crimp on the stellar route. It might look kind of crappy from the ground, but it's really excellent.

Belaying from the top reduces sheath shredding and this route it not really topropable due to its traversing nature.


Location 

Located in the alcove in between "Pika Angst" and the hardman .13 routes that ascend the steep overhung face. Its the obvious crack system in the dihedral that trends right, ending on Pika Angst's anchors.


Protection 

All bolts, at least 10 plus the chains, though many finger size pieces might make this an enjoyable but scary trad lead.



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