|The Dark Side
Comparable to Pocket Laurearete in Sand Gulch; what this immaculate slab lacks in length, it makes up in quality.
Start from a high ledge reached by scrambling up right just past the first "major" concentration of routes on the main approach trail. A one-move-wonder crux right off the ground, requiring pefect footwork and balance, and rather height dependent,can be more safely done by stick clipping the second bolt. The first bolt just keeps you from decking 30'down off of the elevated ledge start; the crux is below and off to the right of the second clip and a ledge out seems very possible.
The climbing soon settles down to excellent mid 11 on perfect crimps and monos to the anchors leaving one begging for another 4 clips worth of the same.
4 bolts + anchors.
|By Tom T|
Dec 16, 2008
Easily 4 stars if it was just a few bolts longer...great moves on perfect stone.
May 6, 2012
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a
Just curious to see if anybody has checked out the old 2 bolt project just to the left. The first 2 Van Horn books show this route (2nd book calls is 'project - 13c'). Doesn't look that hard, but does look runout with 2 not-great looking old bolts.
Mono, this should be right up your alley....