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d. Strictly - Shockley's
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L to R R to L Alpha
Gorilla My Dreams 
Grim-Ace Face 
Hi Coroner! 
High Corner 
Midnight Cowboy 
Oscar and Charlie 
Revenge of the Relics 
Ribless (a.k.a. Spare Ribs) 
Ruby Saturday Direct 
Shockley's Ceiling 
Simple Ceilings 
Strictly From Nowhere 
Travels With Charley 


YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b PG13

Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 225'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Phil Jacobus and John Hudson (1962)
Page Views: 590
Submitted By: Tim Schafstall on Apr 3, 2008
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Seasonal Falcon Closure MORE INFO >>>


This climb is really not worth doing, and the latter parts of P2 and P3 have some manky rock. I am 5'7" and had no trouble with the opening jump. My 6'3" partner reached the holds w/o jumping. It's probably best to be sure your second can make the jump so rope stretch does not create an ankle buster. I'd definitely advise against combining pitches for the same reason.

P1 - Jump for the good holds just above the overhang (crux). Work your way up the path of least resistance past some grassy ledges and a lower-angled face to a belay below a left-facing corner.

P2 - Move up the inside corner until the path of least resistance lures you right to the outside corner and up to a ledge. Step right and up the face to the GT ledge.

P3 - Climb the crack and right-facing corner to an overhang, move left (crux) and up to a bolted belay/rap anchor.

There are numerous variations and several ways to go on both the first and second pitches.


About 35 feet right of the Ribs arete, at a long overhang about 6 feet above the ground.


Standard Gunks Rack.

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By micah richard
Sep 5, 2011

This is a nice way to finish up ""ribs"". The third pitch overhang was quite fun. then the climbing gets much easier to the top. my shorter second had trouble getting the jug over the roof, she eventually had to dyno for it.