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The Chapel Wall
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Lighten Up 

Lighten Up 

5.12b

   

FA: Jeff Schoen & Greg Bryce - 1991
Type: Sport
Consensus: 5.12b [details]
Length: 5 pitches, 450 feet
Views: 181 page views

Submitted By: Josh Janes on Oct 2, 2008


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Description 

Lighten Up is an OK route that would be a lot better if it weren't such a pile of lichen. I don't know if this is because of lack of traffic or just the nature of the rock here, but it is a serious detractor from the climbing.

The climb tackles the attractive arete just left of The Great Escape.

P1: Begin on a large ledge and climb up past 2 bolts. From here, either head up the mungy corner at 5.10 armed with a few stoppers, or bust left to the bolted arete, also mungy. One really hard move. 5.12b, 80'.

P2: Face climb up off the belay with really interesting moves -- probably the best pitch. 5.11d, 80'.

P3: Continue up the arete, past a great, difficult sequence and immediately into a slabby boulder problem crux. Continue to the highest of two belay ledges (and three sets of anchors). 5.12b, 80'.

P4: Move out onto the right hand face and climb up and into a small corner. Either stop here at chains, or link into the next pitch -- up and left along a diagonal weakness. 5.11d, 80'-160'.

Rap with one 60m rope.

Rest in peace, Jeff.


Protection 

Draws, optional wires.