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Zodiac, The 

Zenyatta Mondatta 

A3+

   

FA: Bridwell, et al
Type: Aid
Consensus: A3+ [details]
Length: 16 pitches, 1800 feet, Grade VI
Views: 387 page views

Submitted By: Stymingersfink on Apr 27, 2008


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P5's A3-DFU Hooks


Description 

A classic Bridwell line, from the mid-80's, involving some serious hook sections, though they're all bomber hooks, as if there were such a thing. Bat hooks under the 9 o'clock roof are quick to move through, the difficult sections are rated "A2+ AWK" in the SuperTaco guidebook.

Ivo and Ammon climbed this line as a Grade IV in '05 (?), taking 18 hrs (IIRC)... but then, they're not exactly mortals, are they? You should plan on 4-6 days.


Location 

Steep route, beginning at the el-cap pipe (the large piece of stone leaning against the wall just left of Zodiac). Look closely, pack that bowl and hit it before you hit the stone for the haul on P1. With a 70M haul line, it's possible to make the first haul from the P2 anchors. Keep an eye out for bear-46 though, it's amazing how quickly that fucker can move in on an un-attended haul bag sitting on the ground!


Protection 

All anchors are dyno-mite, the gear anchor at the top of the "Left Hand of Darkness" takes up to #4 Camalots. Hhowever, what with the bats flying in and out all night long I wouldn't recommend bivying here. With offset cams, probably get a C4 rating(?). AFAIK, it's been done hammerless, but wait till late season to try to ride that horse. Early season, many of the fixed heads are of a questionable nature due to the freeze/thaw cycle of winter.



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9 O'Clock roof, from the belay.

9 O'Clock roof, from the belay.

Rainbow from Horsetail Falls, April 05 (?)

Rainbow from Horsetail Falls, April 05 (?)

Getting ready to link the final two pitches, this is the end of the rightward traverse off the P14 anchors. IMHO, it's actually easier (for the haul) to NOT link the final two, though that's a tough cookie to resist.

Getting ready to link the final two pitches, this ...

The beginning of P10's Hook'n traverse, with a few peckers thrown in there for peace of mind. There was a 35' whipper later on in this pitch for me, after the sun went down. Clean though, that's the nice thing about overhanging walls.

The beginning of P10's Hook'n traverse, with a few...


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By Ryan Huetter
From: Toyota Tacoma
Apr 27, 2008

Good description. Wish a few of the others were the same!

By Stymingersfink
May 27, 2008

Thanks, you like it..?

Rate the page :)

By Karsten
From: Reno, NV
Jul 2, 2008

I believe the new Supertaco lists several A4 sections on this route. It is a fantastic route with just enough pucker factor to make you sweat a little. Some great features on the route.