BETA PHOTO: Topo for 'Blond Ike' (5.11b R), SW face of Halfdom...
Description
Climbs an amazing golden dike through the steepest section of the SW face of Halfdome. Pitches 2 and 3 are stellar and will make the long approach more than worth while. See posted topo for complete beta. The cruxes are not bolted heavily enough to make this feel like a sport climb, but there are bolts where you need them.
Location
SW Face of Halfdome. 350' left of Snakedike, 50' right of the Salathe'.
Protection
Cams: one each .5-#3 Camalot Nuts: one each medium to large Quickdraws 60m or longer
-correction, we retro'ed the last bolt on pitch two after realizing we wouldn't want to run it out like it was more than once
By Doug Hemken From: Madison, WI Jun 13, 2008 rating: 5.10d R
Hey Karsten. I don't think Andy has climbed with you, has he? He may not realize you are teasing us (I can't really tell)? We spent a lot of time discussing "Growing Up" while we were hiking and in camp ... but once we got to climbing, we pretty much just did what felt right for us.
Yeah, on sight, ground up, hand drilled, from stances ... mostly. While ethical purists rage about ground up versus rap bolting, reality once again intervenes and proves itself more varied than our simple theories can accommodate. Which is one of the reasons I love getting out there.
We'll have to get together in Yosemite some time! I hope your new home is treating you as well as LV did!
By Doug Hemken From: Madison, WI Jun 13, 2008 rating: 5.10d R
A more detailed account of the FA can be found at the Hoofers website.
Half Dome
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