Rick Cashner free-soling "Five and Dime". Photo by...
Description
Five and Dime is the classic and namesake climb for this crag. It is a strenuous crack that takes a wide ranges of gear, from small to off hands. The crux revolves around a strange pod midway up, followed by difficult finger locks and finishes with a burly hand to large-hand sized crack. The gear is solid throughout, and if you are solid too then you should do well on this one.
Location
From the left side of the wall, this is the fifth line. Locate the obvious crack line with a pod-like feature midway. The start is slightly bouldery along some knobs up to a ledge twenty feet from the ground.
Protection
Nuts and cams from small fingers (Green alien) to #3 Camalot. Single rack should suffice.
One of the best. Face to gently overhanging crack, opening from fingers to cups. The business section is mostly thin hands/rings so rack accordingly. I had doubles in .75 and 2 camalots and was happy to have them.
It'd be tough to squeeze more sustained difficulty into the .10d rating. This climb makes you earn it.
By andy patterson Administrator From: Santa Barbara, CA Mar 24, 2008
I'll second that opinion; Five and Dime is every bit the grade. People say that if you can lead this climb, you can lead any 5.10d in the Valley. I can't vouch for that opinion, but I've done 11's that I thought were easier.
Five and Dime Cliff
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