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Lower Cathedral Spire
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Northeast Face 
Regular Route 
Regular Route - Direct Start 
South by Southwest 

South by Southwest 

5.11a

   
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FA: Walt Shipley, Keith Reynolds 7/93
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.11a [details]
Length: 5 pitches, 600 feet
Views: 190 page views

Submitted By: Darko Sarenac on Sep 14, 2007


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Description 

The climb shares the first two pitches (5.6, 5.4) with Regular Route. P3: Then instead going right on the Main Ledge, continue straight up a shallow corner, pass some pins (5.9), pass a bulge (10d) to a baley before right facing corner. P4. Climb straight up the corner to a roof, traverse under the roof, and over to a stance (11a), then a bit higher to a good stance (5.8). P5: a 5.9 pitch leads to the top. There is also a 10a variation if you break left at the very top. Enjoy the view of the valley and el cap! (nota bene: the 11 pitch is more like the 'old school' 10. So this may be a good climb to break into the grade.)


Location 

Start the same as Regular Route.


Protection 

Extra hand size pieces helpful.



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By Nathan Furman
From: Salt Lake City, Utah
Oct 21, 2007

This is a wonderful climb! The .10d section is a bouldery little move that took me a while to figure out where to get my feet. We linked the .10d pitch and the .11a pitch. Super awesome views of people on the Northeast Face of Higher Cathedral.