Butterfingers 

FA:  Jim Bridwell, Charley Jones 8/71 Type:  Trad Consensus:  5.11a [details] Length:  1 pitch, 80 feet Season:  All year around Views: 181 page views Submitted By: Darko Sarenac on Sep 14, 2007 Add Photo  Add Comment

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Description 

The crux is right of the belay. Climb the leaning crack to a fixed nut. At the crack disappears, a foothold appears on the right. Then reach far right for a good hand jam (11a). Easier if tall. Then climb thin hands to the top (10b).

There is bad potential for falling on your belayer. It may be a good idea to move the belay to the left.

Location 

The climb starts at the top of Butterballs/Wheat Thin. You can do Waverly/Butterballs/Butterfingers as Nabisco (10c/11c/11a), or Beverly's/Wheat Thin/Butterfingers as Nabisco Light (10a/10c/11a).

Protection 

Few small pieces protect the crux. Some thin hand gear for the top.