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1096 

5.10d

   
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FA: Jim Bridwell, John Long, Mark Klemens, 1972
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.10d [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 60 feet
Views: 627 page views

Submitted By: Russ Walling on Jul 13, 2007


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The "Young Strong Local" getting started in the wi...


Description 

Industry standard for 5.10+ wiggling. It's a chimney, it's a flare, it's a fist crack, it's a lieback..... it's a classic! Perfect rock and good pro in the back of the crack. Shady in the afternoons.

The FA team were masters at their craft, so if you are just breaking into the wide and horrible world of 5.10 OW, do a RedBull or something before heading up this one.

click here for a short video clip of the YSL on 1096:
http://fishproducts.com/movies/1096.mov


Location 

Arches Terrace area. This climb points East in a small alcove directly left of a large slabby inset. The route Hangdog Flyer is directly above 1096 and uses the same anchor. 1096 is to the right of Arches Terrace and Greasy But Groovy. Can't miss it if you walk along the base.


Protection 

Bring a few small cams for the start, then the business section takes cams around 4". You might need 3 or 4 of these. There might be a fixed pin and fixed #10 hex in the thing.... or there was on 7/07.



Add Photo Photos of 1096
YSL making the transition from flare to layback.

YSL making the transition from flare to layback.


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By Will S
Jul 14, 2007

Fantastic. One of the best. Aesthetic, rarely done, and reasonable for the rating.

By Alexey
From: San Jose
Dec 21, 2007

Need beta : which "side in" is easier to climb this flare? From the movie of YSL - seems that he is climbing harder way with his left side in. Is right side in is easier?

By Russ Walling
From: www.FishProducts.com
Dec 21, 2007

I've always done it left side in after seeing the picture of Phil Gleason ripping out of the thing right side in....

Alexey, you can always ask over here, http://www.widefetish.com too. Lot's of wide guys lurking around there.

By Will S
Dec 28, 2007

I went left side in, but it probably doesn't matter much. In the bottom 2/3 the flare is very secure, knee foot style with a fist in the back. At the 2/3 point, the outside wall of the flare gets shorter, effectively making the flare less deep. This is the crux since you can't get solid knee-foot action anymore. You could keep thrutching left or right side in with a fist in the back, or turn straight on and fist jam it with both hands. Eventually, you will be pulling into a lieback, and that is definitely going to be easier if you are left side in or straight on.

By susan peplow
From: what day is this?
Jan 9, 2008

My first experience "smelling" ants was at the base of this route. Yuck!