Waverly Wafer 

FA:  Jim Bridwell, Barry Bates & Beverly Johnson 10/70 Type:  Trad Consensus:  5.10+ [details] Length:  1 pitch, 85 feet Views: 414 page views Submitted By: Alex on Jul 12, 2007 Add Photo  Add Comment

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Description 

By far, the most classic way to start up the Nabisco Wall!

Get stoked and jam a mellow gold/blue Camalot-sized crack, taking advantage of face holds and stems...Enter the flare pod (#4 C4 Camalot)...If you've been right-side in and got spanked at the top of the pod, then next time try the secret beta of going left-side in...Use good technique or you may still get spanked-hard by the flare but you'll be set up to jam the green Camalot size splitter to the top. A hard size for most anyone to straight-in jam...Get layed and pump it up to the hand jams and then the bolted anchor below B-u-t-t-e-r-b-a-l-l-s.

Location 

Scramble right under Bev's Tower across and up flakes and past a tree to the very base of the big left facing corner and belay...OR...Rope up way lower on a big grassy ledge and lieback up a big flake to the same spot.

Protection 

Red Alien size to doubles of green Camalot to #4 Camalot sizes.