Once a sketchy 5.13 gear-tinkering single-pitch pumpfest, now a fully bolted 2 pitch sport route...Like so many older routes (Heinous Cling at Smith Rock comes to mind) that were mixed gear and bolts, the Cookie Monster is now a clip up.
Rarely done, the continuous and steep "second" (5.13) pitch of black rock, golden knobs and tiny, sharp crimps looms above the overhanging crescent-like seam of the fun and very chalked first pitch.
Getting to the popular 5.12- "first" pitch anchor is an increasingly difficult finger-lieback and stemming sequence with one BIG move and culminating with a crux section which can be pulled off in about 3 different ways.
Protection
SM/MED nuts and thin finger sized cams can be used to supplement the bolts on the "first" pitch...But, if you are strong enough to place anything, then you may as well skip all the bolts while you're at it.
I thought P2 was always bolt protected. Also, isn't "Cookie Monster" the name of the 12a pitch, and "Cookie Cutter" the name of the second, 13b pitch? Anyway, the 2nd pitch is pretty solid for the grade. Very sharp and thin, with some reachy moves near the top.
Basically enduro liebacking with decent edges for feet and a short crux sequence where the crack arches and thins. Can't say that I've seen anyone supplement the bolts with gear other than placing one stopper on the way to the first bolt.
By Hank Caylor From: Eldorado Springs, CO Feb 11, 2008 rating: 5.13b
Mono, I thought that the 2nd pitch was called Cookie Cutter as well. Lotsa glue but great fun, I also sorta thought Eddie Berry did the 2nd pitch and Kurt the 1st. Anyways, soopergood route but it killed my fingertips.
The Cookie Cliff
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