Leanie Meanie 

FA:  Jim Donini, Rab Carrington & Mark Chapman 1972 Type:  Trad Consensus:  5.11b [details] Length:  3 pitches, 350 feet Views: 258 page views Submitted By: Alex on Jul 11, 2007 Add Photo  Add Comment

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Description 

I've never done the 2nd pitch...But the 1st is brilliant!

Solo up the bushy, easy pedestal and continue or belay (yellow/extra red Alien sizes)...

(at the start) It may look short but its hard and it does get bigger. Crux red Alien-size jams and layaway/stems come right off the ledge. After punching it to a stem-stance the crack keeps growing in width. At midway, you get some fun and steep hand jams around blocks to a weird wide section in a corner. A couple grunt moves later and you'll be rounding the top to the funky anchor on the right wall.

Rap off to the ground is about 125'...Or check out the upper part if you're curious.

Location 

Hidden in a big right (east) facing corner

Protection 

Doubles from red Alien size to C4 #4 Camalot (red Alien is the money size)