This route is a clean and aesthetic crack line that turns a small roof reminiscent of Committment on the 2nd pitch. It is usually rappelled after the first two pitches, but you can continue for two more pitches of 5.7 at a lower quality than the initial two pitches. If doing the upper pitches, take two ropes to rap. The first pitch starts with a somewhat slippery 5.7 lieback section to easy low angle jamming, ~75 feet. Belay on gear in cracks directly below the second pitch, or move way right to the rap station at a bay tree. Belay takes nuts, small TCUs, and cams from 1.25" to 3". Second pitch starts perfect hands up and around the roof and thins to 1.25" as the angle kicks back, ~75 feet, bolted anchor.
Location
From the toe of the Lower Brother, walk left approximately 50 feet to and obvious left facing lieback flake with a distinct small roof about 100' up. From the top of P2 rap on one rope to the bay tree with rap slings just right of the start of P2.
Protection
Cams to 2". 2nd pitch anchor is two new bolts backed up with two old 1/4" ers.
With good rope management and enough 1.5-3" cams, it is easy enough to link the first two pitches for a great lead. The rappel from the bolted anchor is 110' to the ground, so a single 70m rope will do the trick.
RSS Feed
