The Northeast Buttress of Higher Cathedral Rock has a reputation for being a fantastic climb -- Don Reid refers to it as one of the best grade IV's in the Valley, and SuperTopo raves about its 5-star quality. Most people I've spoken with who have climbed it enjoyed the route but didn't necessarily go on and on about it. Personally, I thought the climb was average in quality and less than the spectacular classic it is made out to be. The NEB has some things going for it: such as a few stand-out pitches (but only a few), very sustained climbing pitch-for-pitch, and a relatively steep line. Going against it is much less-than-memorable climbing, and of course a pretty lengthy approach and walkoff. Climb it and decide for yourself.
Follow the standard Higher Cathedral Rock approach. The NEB is before one arrives at Braille Book -- these two climbs bookend the large, steep, mostly blank east wall of Higher Cathedral. It begins at a blocky, left-facing corner.
P1: Scramble to the top of the blocks, then trend left to a long right-facing corner of 5.6 cracks. Belay on a ledge at bolts. 5.6.
P2: Climb a steep 5.8 crack or an ugly slot to the right. Trend right and then wander up crack systems to a belay by a tree and a weird pillar of rock. 5.6.
P3: Climb 5.8 & 5.9 hands through some roofs and continue up crack systems to a belay on a ledge.
P4: Climb a long, steep left-facing corner through several bulges. Link this pitch easily into the next one with a long runner. 5.8.
P5: Traverse straight left across an exposed face. Various gear, some fixed pro, and some bits of downclimbing lead to a bolted belay on a long flake/ledge system. This pitch is where Mary's Tears crosses the route and continues into the Crucifix. This is also the halfway point and where the climbing turns physical. 5.8.
P6-8: Climb steep crack systems of all sizes, including ugly squeezes, belaying where necessary, until exiting a 5.8 chimney and belaying to the left at bolts. The supposed crux pitch is a nice, clean corner protected with a few pins. Not too bad compared to the steep squeezes and OW on other parts of the climb. 5.9.
P9: Traverse left past a beautiful looking fist crack in a right-facing corner, downclimb a bit, then continue left to easier flakes and tree climbing. Belay here, or if you runner things very well it is possible to link to the next pitch. 5.9.
P10: Climb up the crack system to a belay at a tree. 5.8.
P11: Perhaps the true crux of the climb. Continue up very steep, awkward cracks to a face traverse to an obvious tree out left. Runner your gear well, and launch up from the tree to a strenuous, possibly unprotected, 5.8 squeeze to a dirty mantle to the top. 5.8+.
Descend towards the top of Braille Book, continue past it and down the saddle to the east, eventually some manzanita tunnelling will return you to your packs.
A long and epic journey for those of us for whom 5.9 is our limit! There is a short but evil chimney near the middle of this climb that closes off at the top. The crux of the climb for us was trying to figure out how to exit this beast, which as I recall we did using a piece for aid.
At the base of the last pitch the sun was setting. I was belaying my partner up and he started puking, he was feeling terrible. So I found myself leading that final OW at dusk. I think I found a way to avoid it, there are several options if you look around.
All our worries are over as we top out. Or are they? Although we had a headlamp the batteries were fading and we couldn't figure out how to get down, so we started a fire to keep warm and bivied. Brunch at the Ahwanee never tasted better the next day.
Wow, this route is 5.9+++++. The 5.8 squeeze chimney, it's only 5.8 how hard could it be, right!! The route starts off as normal 5.8-5.9 but after the traverse into the corner it becomes a different ballgame. Very physical indeed. Bring headlamps.
Too bad the guy who posted the route put such a negative spin on it. It all depends on your tastes... This citizen says: the NEB is a MEGA-CLASSIC. Still one of the most memorable routes I've done.
Edited to add: Also disagree on the PG-13. And also to add: Josh Janes has written some of the best route pages on this site, which kicks ass - I just disagree with him on this one.
I agree with Sirius. How many other routes climb near vertical sustained 5.9 for a thousand feet or so up a clean and beautiful buttress? The belays offer incredible views of the Captain and the descent is very easy by Valley standards. For those who enjoy exposure and position, this is a superb route.
Although I have not seen the route in ions, I recall it as one of the all time classic valley routes, in it's grade. Good rock, easy descent and as said above, great views of the Captain.
The chance to get up on that "Mary's tears/Crucifix" wall and do a climb with that kind of positioning, at a very doable grade of 5.9yah (yes it is a ultra strenous 5.9 climb but it is just that, it is not 5.10 -5.10+ )
When I did it ('80) friends had just come out and we had a meager colection augmenting the standard rack of nuts. I recall my partner and I sitting at the start and finnish to the traverse, taking time to soak up the position.
We talked as we eye ball'd the line of mary's tears. the discussion mostly centered around "wow imagine Kaulk, etal, out here working on that route, no friends yet, just nuts. Climbing at that grade on that clean of a wall, all alone in the 70's... HF"
Of the "middle" and "higher" moderate classics, I would say wrap 'central pillar of frenzy' 'middle east butt' and 'braille book' together, and the 'NEB of Higher' would still win my vote. I give the route 5 stars.
By Mike Morley Administrator From: Oakland, CA Sep 2, 2007
I more-or-less agree with Josh Janes' assessment of the route. NEB is most certainly a long and physical climb (especially the upper half). There are nice views of the Cathedral Spires. The descent is straightforward (essentially the same as for Braille Book). The climbing itself is strenuous and demanding, with plenty of awkward offwidth and chimneying. In my opinion, it is a very good route, but not as good as the East Buttress of Middle Cathedral.
Probably my favorite route in the Valley. Builds nicely in difficulty, very exposed. A few notes:
I heard you used to stem off a tree in the crux. It's not there any more. These moves were hard onsight!
Up near the last pitch, we went right on some thin crack as per the old green Meyers guide. I felt this bulge was 5.10 with somewhat dubious pro, but we avoided the wide stuff up the obvious corner. My second, a solid 9 climber, couldn't touch that pitch...
Dogwoods were in bloom, it was a perfect time. JMO but better than EB Middle. Steeper and more physical, plus you get to marvel at the Crucifix up close!
Higher Cathedral Rock
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