This is a new crag in the Valley that a few friends and I started developing in the summer of 2006. The climbing is fun! There is a bunch of room for potential development as we have only put in a few routes. The first tier is kind of broken with only one route on it, a highball boulder problem on the north side, it has potential for more though. The second tier is where we developed the crack climbs. The third tier seems to hold potential for multipitch and single pitch slab, corner, and chimney lines, we haven't really investigated it though. The climbs are all traditionally protected but with some doing they can all be topropped fairly easily. The rock is generally of really good quality but because the routes are new there are loose blocks, dirt, and moss in places...be forewarned but don't let it deter you! A helmet is recommended.
Getting There
This crag has a really easy approach. It is located in Indian Canyon which is between Yosemite Falls and Royal Arches. Park at the Church Bowl and hike the Valley Loop Trail towards El Cap for a couple of minutes until you hit a wooden bridge that is maybe 15 or 20 feet long. Before you cross the bridge cut right on a trail. Skirt the east bank of the river a ways following roughly a trail that you will find and then loose again. After about 5 minutes you will find the trail on a steep slope just above the river. Follow it about 10 minutes and you will come to a little boulder field. A giant power cable on the ground will come in contact with the wall. Walk up the boulders for 50 feet and take a right, the climbs are on the second tier of the buttress.
The crag faces west and is in dense forest so has generally really nice temps. Bring a tarp and expect dirt though! Also as it is close to the creek, bring the bug spray!!!
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