Surplus Cheaper Hands 

FA:  John Tuttle, Norman Boles and George Watson Type:  Trad, Sport Consensus:  5.10a/b [details] Length:  1 pitch, 80 feet Season:  Year Views: 117 page views Submitted By: Daniel S on May 16, 2007 Add Photo  Add Comment

You and this route  |  Other Opinions (3) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Description 

Crux is the face friction climbing between old quarter inch bolts. The climb starts out on a nice hands to fingers crack before petering out onto face climbing. The first bolt you come across (just slightly to the left and 8 Ft above were the crack peters out) is a nice modern 3/8 bolt. After that, up and left some more on thin friction climbing, the bolts are all old scary 1/4 inch bolts that can probably hold body weight. After the last quarter inch, you can slip in a 3/4 inch cam in a small crack and make your way to the tree for belay, or traverse over to the Age of Industry anchor just right of the climb

Location 

Climb the first crack left of the 5.6 chimney start of Royal Arches route. (Just left of Age of Industry)

Protection 

1 1/2 inch to 1/2 inch cams for the crack, quick draws for bolts. One good 3/8 bolt protects the first moves once the crack ends, the next three are old quarter inchers that should hold body weight. :) Sling the tree above or use the three bolt anchor of Age of Industry.