The easiest way up Higher Cathedral Spire. 400' of entertainment take you to the top of a spire with spectacular views. This adventure felt like mountaneering as much as technical climbing with the steep approach, many tree belays, and sometimes loose nature of the rock.
As a note there are several variations. I will list as I have climbed it which was great fun. Check the Supertopo guide for a more complete picture. Each pictch listed is about 100'.
P1 (5.5) Up a left facing dihedral to a bushy ledge.
P2 (5.9) Up a crack to a small roof. Traverse left under the roof, then pull up over the steep bulge on decent hand holds. Traverse left more to a nice ASCA bolt, then up and left to an easy crack. Leads to a tree.
P3 (5.9) Up and left to a chimney. Traverse left around a bulge into a chimney hidden from view from the belay. Up the chimney to another tree belay.
P4 (5.9) The standard route goes up and left for a short pitch, then up to the top from there. The varation (best pitch on the route in my opinion) goes straight up through some steep wildly fractured rocks to a ledge with a tree and continues up a short clean hand crack / flake. From the top of this traverse left and then find the easiest way to the top from there.
Rappel from the ASCA bolts on the south side of the summit. Tree rappels from there. A single 60 meter rope or longer is highly advised. Tie knots.
Location
Across the valley from El Cap. Start near a shield with a cross etched onto the rock. The route is in the shade until the middle of the day, keep this in mind when looking for the start. Route is on west side of the pinnacle.
Protection
Gear to 4". Used the 4" piece at least twice. Long slings for rope drag and trees.
Photos of Regular Route (Higher Cathedral Spire) Slideshow
By George Bell From: Boulder, CO Jun 4, 2007 rating: 5.9
A large portion of the last pitch of this route fell off in the 80's or so, changing this pitch substantially. Watch out for loose stuff!
By Mike Morley Administrator From: Oakland, CA Aug 20, 2007
Only "classic" in terms of its history and a nice view of the Valley from the top. The climbing itself is unmemorable and there is quite a bit of loose rock.
Some loose rock, yes, but unmemorable? 3 pitches of 5.9, incredible setting, great exposure, and a plethora of variations for your choosing. The hike isn't even bad. Definitely classic in my book.
By Mike Morley Administrator From: Oakland, CA May 28, 2008
Just my opinion. Of the 100 or so Valley routes I've climbed to date, this is just not one I'm anxious to jump on again. Again, just my opinion. Glad you liked it though!
No worries, just adding some positive balance. We climbed the NE Butt of HCR (just across the talus field) after I wrote my last comment and watched climbers disturb a crazy amount of rock, I think from the ledge above pitch 4. Careful on the "shattered rock" variation in Supertopo for pitch 4.
The pitch 2 variation out over the roof right onto a foothold sparse arete and flaring hands adds some challenge and comes straight up to the belay. Seemed a bit harder than the rest of the route.
By James DeRoussel Administrator From: Tucson, AZ Jun 24, 2008
This is a fun climb in my opinion, and the historical nature of the route only adds to the experience. Great summit.
I agree. I had a great time and the top-out is insanely awesome. What a view! So much of the time in the valley, you just get to the top of some cliff and hike down. It was fun to climb something with a more "alpine" finish.
By Chris Owen Administrator From: La Crescenta, CA Sep 20, 2009 rating: 5.9 PG13
This is an unbelievable climb for its era, and highly recommended. Five pitches as we climbed it.
Not sure why this wouldn't be a classic - it's steeped in history, has a truly awesome (I don't use that word lightly) summit with sweeping vistas, and gets some massive exposure as it progresses. Not the kind of exposure you earn as you climb but the kind that suddenly jumps out at you, unexpectedly, increasing it's impact.
How many moderate routes can boast this? Even in Yosemite. IMHO the traverse on P4 is about as good as rock climbing gets - like a scene from "The Mountain" with Spencer Tracy easing his way across, above the abyss, blowing on in his cold hands and hammering in pitons as he goes.
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