Martin from Churmany looking forward to 50' of 5.F...
Description
How is this route not on here yet? This is the classic "Let's go flail on an off width since we're in Yosemite" climb. There is literally no approach and it is super easy to TR. So if you want to try out a 5.10 ow in Yosemite, throw on a toprope and commence struggling. Most people I’ve talked to seem to think the bottom section is the crux but I don’t think it’s too bad if you have some basic leavitation technique. Transitioning into the squeeze up higher however, is a grunt any way I know to do it.
Location
On the south side of the 140, a few miles west of the junction with the 120. Look for the old generator station.
Protection
Easy TR off of a couple bolts. Leading it would require a big bro or two as most of it is too big for cams.
THE crack to train for valley OW and squeeze. Hits every bad size as it gradually widens from off fists/hand stacks. Potentially humiliating, always entertaining, and a serious full body workout. Hand stacks, foot stacks, arm bars, chicken wings, knee locks, heel toes...you get a chance to use everything on this one. Nice hang spot at the base right next to the river. Take care at the horn/flake structure up high on the left, it flexes a bit and would be bad news for the belayer if it pulls.
This thing is obscene! You have to love it. If Generator Crack were a person, you ask? I'm thinking 'Hacksaw' Jim Duggan. Maybe the Kathy Bates character from 'Misery'. Or the beast from 'The Host'.
Generator Crack ate my car keys! Yes, once while setting up a TR they fell out of my pocket at the worst possible moment, jangling down into the crack about 20 feet. After peering down for about 10 seconds I realized they were irretrievable. By an amazing coincidence, I had another set of keys in my pack so disaster was avoided. Still, the inside of the crack probably holds all sorts of treasures.
By Nathan Furman From: Salt Lake City, Utah Aug 3, 2007
This thing is so burly! I got my foot stuck doing a heel/tow near the top and couldn't get it out. I tried wrenching it free by lifting my heel, which just made the pain worse. Ultimately I untied my shoe and was able to get my foot out.
This climb left me with a ton of scratches on practically every major extension of my body. In spite of this I quite enjoyed conquering it the second time around. The trick at the beginning seems to be to use the tree to bypass the narrower part of the crack at the very bottom of the run. From there I stacked my feet, pushed up the crack, and locked my shoulder and arm and repeated. It gets way easier after having gone 80% of the way. You simply contort your body into the position a cheerleader would make when she (or he) would represent the letter "H"and scoot up the crack.
Bottom line: Find some good climbing clothes for this because it left me with a bunch of scabs.
Generator Station
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