Doggie Deviations 

FA:  Kim Schmitz & Jim Bridwell, 1968 Type:  Trad Consensus:  5.9 [details] Length:  95 feet Views: 257 page views Submitted By: Sirius on Apr 22, 2007 Add Photo  Add Comment

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Chuck leading the flake variation 5 feet right of ...

Description 

A good pitch which is in your face right off the ground. Fingers, tight hands, hands, liebacks, body language all required at some point. Crux is low, but the entire first half of the route is sustained at the grade. A proud send, put up by two collosal figures in Yosemite's golden age, when 5.9 was a whole different concept.

A variation, also 5.9, takes the thin flake right of the crack. Not sure about quality of pro in this flake.

Location 

From the boulder field, keep your eyes open for the two obvious, short widecracks, Doggie Do and Doggie Diversions. Doggie Deviations, your climb, is just uphill from these. Fingers to tight-hands off the deck, can't miss it.
We were able to rap with one 60, but it was close.

Protection 

To 2.5"

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Pulling the crux early on, merely 10 feet off the ...