Henley Quits 

FA:  Mark Klemens and Rick Sylvester, July 1970 Type:  Trad Consensus:  5.10 [details] Length:  1 pitch, 150 feet Views: 372 page views Submitted By: Sirius on Apr 14, 2007 Add Photo  Add Comment

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Description 

So very classic. Work up the first 25' of easy wide climbing to the small ledge beneath the striking, flared squeeze chimney. After another ~35' the chimney (5.8) will begin to pinch down to take fists, then cupped hands, and finally hands, all the while arching and steepening. This is a wild and pumpy crux section that does not let up until you turn the flake at the top of the crack. Pull over the small roof/step on good holds, hold down the pump and gun up a thin crack in a shallow dihedral for the chains.
Either rap with two ropes, or rap on a single rope to the anchors above Cristina (down and climber's left), and rap again from here to the ground. Run a couple of laps on the beginning lieback section of Cristina for a bonus.

Location 

300 feet further up the boulder field from the Doggie Deviations area.

Protection 

Doubles to 5", 5-7" cams protect the chimney. Be sure to have small/finger pieces or nuts for the top.