Begin up blocky rock to gain a clean, right-angling fingers/lieback ramp (.10a). Follow this ramp until a sequence of face moves up and left of the crack comes into view, near the top of the ramp. Move up through these crux face moves past a bolt (if it's there; rumor of it being chopped as of late '06/early '07?) and around a series of minor roofs. Either belay at pin with additional gear, or continue up easier terrain to the upper pitches of The Surprise (gear anchor).
Combining this pitch with the last two pitches of the Surprise makes for an excellent 3-pitch, 5.10 affair, and is sooo recommended.
Location
Approach as for Commmitment, continue past the Surprise ~40 ft until you find the obvious ramp start to WAT.
Protection
Doubles to 2", single 3" if continuing up The Surpise.
By Paul Hunnicutt From: Boulder, CO Oct 22, 2007 rating: 5.10c R
We didn't see any bolts and personally I found the pro where you move left a the expanding flake a bit sketchy, hence my R rating. Excellent Eldo-esque climbing. I agree, it seems a logical start to the Surprise and makes for an amazing 2-3 pitch climb.
Great fun. I spent too much time looking for a bolt that isn't there to begin the traverse. Look for a pod/jug. This is where you go left. Bring small nuts or cams to protect the crux traverse, though your gear will be more psychological than protective.
Also, chopped bolt at the optional first belay (70'). Only a piton and 1-4" cracks a plenty for gear. Better yet, continue another 70' for a better belay stance.
Five Open Books
RSS Feed
