Portions of this area is closed to all visitor use to protect peregrine falcon aeries from March 1 until August 1 of each year or until the young falcons of the current year have fledged.
East of Glacier Point Apron. Closure includes all routes above 200 feet from the base of the cliff east of Glacier Point Apron including "A Mother's Lament" to the Illilouette Gorge.
Often times people belay at the bolted anchor at the top of the first pitch. It is better to go up the easy ramp to the base of the roof near the dead tree and belay instead. Doing this frees up that anchor for toproping the bolted route to the left of harry daley, and it also allows people to rap from the anchor on the way down from the top of harry daley.
The variety of cracks- fingers, hands, fists, a traverse, all in short sections of 20 feet or so,- and the roof pull on solid pro and jams make this route an absolute joy. At two short pitches it is not too much of a commitment, either, short enough to keep things fun and enjoyable. A great climb! Belaying from the tree is recommended, even comfortable. Two ropes to rappel, 60m ropes will get you down to the first 3rd class bench from the chain anchors. The 10b slab climb to the left of the route (Variation on a Theme) is an enjoyable and challenging toprope from same anchors.
By Chris Owen Administrator From: La Crescenta, CA Sep 20, 2009 rating: 5.8
Second pitch is a lot of fun.
"Class 3" approach could mess with some people's heads, especially the descent.
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