1. Climb the groove 5.2, into a 4th class ramp, follow this and then some dirty climbing up on a large ledge and triple bolt belay.
2. Climb directly up above the belay until a delicate rising right traverse (no pro) allows a good crack to be gained. Follow this, until you can scramble under a tree onto a ledge and belay.
3. Follow the ledge left and then climb good cracks up to a hanging bolt belay. This is the first of 3 good pitches.
4. Continue up the crack system until an obvious step right can be made where the cracks continue up to the belay.
5. This last pitch is a good one. This climb saves it very best to the very last few moves. Climb up until a nice finger crack allows progress up and onto the belay.
Descent is via Rappel. Rappel to the 3rd belay. From there Rappel to a tree with a rappel slings, and from there to the bottom. These rappels need double ropes.
Location
Located on the left hand side of the Royal Arches Area. 200' up and left from Serenity Crack.
By Scott Tucker From: Tucson, AZ May 2, 2007 rating: 5.9
If you traverse to the left end of the ledge at the end of the 2nd pitch and belay from there, you can run the 3rd and 4th pitches together with a 60-meter rope. This lets you skip the hanging belay, which you will discover on the rappel down is a very uncomfortable place to hang out. Better to skip it if you can.
A good, fun romp that has some very loose rock, particularly on the last pitch before you gain the clean splitter. Careful what you pull on, I almost dropped a basketball sized chunk onto my belayer before gingerly putting it back in place.
Agree that linking the first two off of the ledge (also covered in loose rocks) is the way to go.
Great route in spite of the patches of loose stuff, and perfect if you're pushing into the grade. Stays in the shade behind the Ahwahnee Buttress until late morning.
By Mike Morley Administrator From: Oakland, CA Jul 20, 2007
Royal Arches
RSS Feed
