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Higher Cathedral Spire
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East Corner 
Regular Route (Higher Cathedral Spire) 

East Corner 

5.10a

   

FA: ?
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.10a [details]
Length: 4 pitches, 450 feet, Grade II
Views: 310 page views

Submitted By: Adam on Jan 31, 2007


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Description 

P1 5.9/160'belay on the highest ledge go up cracks to the roof pass it on the right pass a small stance and climb 2 perfect finger cracks to a sloping ledge below a huge corner.
p2 *Great Pitch*5.10/180'climb the thin hands corner past a fixed pin and up..up..in to the off with/chimney exit on to a big ledge.
P35.9/70'climb any of the cracks to the next big ledge
p4 5.6/50' grove up to one of the best summits on the valley!


Rap to the west down the standard route w/ 2 ropes. you can do it w/ 1 but we used 2.


Location 

We walked down hill from the saddle and climbed a wandering mungy pitch to get to the base. you'll see some tat on the south face and some roofs as you head down hill, keep looking till you see the huge right facing corner then head up.


Protection 

full rack doubles to#4
no fixed belays on route



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By George Bell
From: Boulder, CO
Jan 31, 2007

This route is much better than the standard route on the Higher Spire, in my opinion. In fact it is the best route I've done on either of the Cathedral Spires (I've also done the standard route and NE Face on the Lower Spire).

The Cathedral Spires are some of my favorite features in Yosemite, yet few brave the rough approaches. The spires are pretty amazing, and larger than they look from the valley floor.