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Reed's Pinnacle Area
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Bongs Away, Left 
Chingando 
Ejesta 
Lunatic Fringe 
Reed's Pinnacle Left 
Reed's Pinnacle Regular Route 
Reed's Pinnacle-Direct Route 
Remnant-Left Side, The 
Remnant-Right Side, The 
Stone Groove 

Ejesta 

5.8

   
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FA: 
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.8 [details]
Length: 2 pitches, 210 feet
Views: 553 page views

Submitted By: caughtinside on Jan 29, 2007


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Jeff belaying me on the second pitch of Ejesta.


Description 

First pitch takes a rather uninspiring line straight up some broken rock, mostly easy with a move or two of 5.7. Belay in a alcove/stance. The second pitch is fantastic, a 120' double handcrack, then a really airy traverse to the right on positive hands with undercut feet.


Location 

Ejesta is found by hiking east from reed's direct, past lunatic fringe and past stone groove. If you get to a huge corner alcove, you've gone just a little too far.


Protection 

standard rack, to 3". I have heard you can do the route in 1 pitch with a 70m, but havent tried it. I think you would still need 2 ropes to rappel.



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By Mike Morley
Administrator
From: Oakland, CA
Aug 15, 2007

At least one 4" piece is helpful for the upper portion of the second pitch. Great route!

By TinCrow
From: Ca
May 5, 2008

First pitch has loose stones at the belay, be careful. Really great second pitch, widened up to #5 camalot. We did the rap with one 70' that left us on a chossy ledge with an easy move to the ground.

By jpvandever
From: San Francisco, CA
May 5, 2008
rating: 5.8

The belay at the top of P1 is blocky and loose. The left crack is formed by sketchy stacked blocks supported by a crumbling base. Set anchor in right crack with #2 and #3 BD camalots (or larger).