First pitch takes a rather uninspiring line straight up some broken rock, mostly easy with a move or two of 5.7. Belay in a alcove/stance. The second pitch is fantastic, a 120' double handcrack, then a really airy traverse to the right on positive hands with undercut feet.
Location
Ejesta is found by hiking east from reed's direct, past lunatic fringe and past stone groove. If you get to a huge corner alcove, you've gone just a little too far.
Protection
standard rack, to 3". I have heard you can do the route in 1 pitch with a 70m, but havent tried it. I think you would still need 2 ropes to rappel.
First pitch has loose stones at the belay, be careful. Really great second pitch, widened up to #5 camalot. We did the rap with one 70' that left us on a chossy ledge with an easy move to the ground.
By jpvandever From: San Francisco, CA May 5, 2008 rating: 5.8
The belay at the top of P1 is blocky and loose. The left crack is formed by sketchy stacked blocks supported by a crumbling base. Set anchor in right crack with #2 and #3 BD camalots (or larger).
Do the route with a 70m rope. This just makes the rappel to the ground easier and faster. Also, after rappelling, you should top rope Porter's Pout 5.10. This is the broken handcrack you see while on rappel and shares the same chains as Ejesta.
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