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Separate Reality 

Separate Reality 

5.12a

   
1 person found this page useful

FA: Ron Kauk - 1978
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.12a [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 50 feet
Views: 1,259 page views

Submitted By: Josh Janes on Oct 16, 2006


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Separate Reality. Photo by Marc Horan.


Description 

Separate Reality is the photogenic, quintessential Yosemite roof climb. It's short, aesthetic, athletic, and buckets o' fun.

Take Hwy 120 out of the Valley and after going through two short tunnels, park at a paved pullout immediately before the third, long tunnel. Hike up the road to the mouth of this tunnel, jump over the stone wall, and follow a steep track down the cliff for 3 minutes. This deposits you at the top of the Separate Reality visor. Just before walking onto the slab, locate a good pine tree to fix a line to and do a short (40') rap down to a staging area at the base of the climb.

It's pretty obvious: Climb the steep lieback flake to a stance, then bust out the 20' roof to a wild series of moves at the lip.


Protection 

If you want to lead this on gear, I recommend a #3 Camalot for the belayer, a #1 and a #4 Camalot for the initial lieback section, and then a #3, a pair of #2s, a #1, and a 0.75 for the crack itself. However, a much easier option is to bring four or five hexes and long slings: One can easily pre-load the crack by dropping the hexes down in from above. One person should rap in first to direct this procedure.



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Stoked...

Stoked...

Oh yeah! photo by Dusan

Oh yeah! photo by Dusan

Bald spot Bill rock scaling the mountain cliff of Separate Reality

Bald spot Bill rock scaling the mountain cliff of ...


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By rickd
Jun 8, 2007
rating: 5.11d

This route originally required a foot first exit (ala Jardine photos). A hold appeared sometime after which allows a finger lock at lip.

By Josh Janes
Administrator
Jun 8, 2007

Feet first is still the way to go!

By m-earle
From: Durango CO
Jul 30, 2007

yeah, feet first is pretty clutch. you'd have to be super human to do it any other way