Ahab is a wide testpiece for the aspiring wide specialist. Begin in a corner just to the right of Moby Dick. After a short 20ft scramble you enter the meat of the climb, a chimney that narrows and squeezes all but the most petite out to the edge. Exit out top of the chimney and enter a flaring handcrack. Continue up another slot and then to the anchors.
Location
The route is located on the west side of el cap a few hundred feet from the toe where the trails meets the face. Begin in a corner just to the right of Moby Dick.
Protection
Bring the big boys for this one. A standard rack with cams up to #6 friend or #6 camalot.
A old #5 camalot will protect at about your head when you enter the squeeze and are standing on the spike feature, but you cannot walk it, it will tip out within another foot or two. A #6 friend is the ticket here. The squeeze leans and flares. Making progress requires staying toward the outside, which feels like it's going to spit you out. Crawl deeper in to rest, move back toward the lip to move.
Crux is probably the flare, and I thought .10b, but don't trivialize the climbing higher up, there is a somewhat funky face section going left just before the anchor.
I agree will, I thought it was going to be over after the squeeze but that flaring handcrack can feel overhanging at times. All this after your spent from the bottom part makes for a long full value pitch. This is one of my proudest leads. Definately one of those climbs where the grade isn't a good indicator of the effort involved.
El Capitan Base Routes
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