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Middle Cathedral Rock
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Bircheff-Williams 
Central Pillar of Frenzy 
Direct North Buttress (DNB) 
East Buttress 
Ho Chi Minh Trail 
Kor-Beck 
North Buttress 
Pee Pee Pillar 
Rainbow bridge 
Stoner's Highway 

Bircheff-Williams 

5.11b

   

FA: Phil Bircheff and Steve Williams 1969. FFA Kevin Worrall and George Meyers 1973
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.11b [details]
Length: 5 pitches, 500 feet
Views: 983 page views

Submitted By: Nate Weitzel on Oct 8, 2006


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Description 

This is a five pitch line left of Central Pillar of Frenzy. I have only tried the first pitch, which can be toproped after descending the rappels for Central Pillar. The first pitch is thin climbing up a clean dihedral, leading to a short section of off-width that is easier than it may look. The crux is obvious as the finger crack peters out, and you have to negotiate 20 feet of extremely strenuous stemming on glassy feet. Consider the use of the arete out right if you are tall. There are two pins in the crack, and you can get some small cams, but still a heady lead. The remaining four pitches look interesting, although I have not tried them.


Location 

Directly left of Central Pillar, and follows the final rappel pitch for that route.


Protection 

Small gear (doubles) (offset Aliens, micro cams, lowe-balls) up to 3". Perhaps a #4 Camalot for the wide crack. Pitch one can be toproped from the rappel anchors with a 70 m rope (although you just barely reach the ground with rope stretch so be careful not to lower your partner off the end!)



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By 426
Apr 14, 2008
rating: 5.11a/b

1st pitch easier if taller, fixed pins when we did it. Don't be scared, fire it. Fabulous! Need to go back for the rest sometime...

By Rob Dillon
From: Short Circuit
Oct 12, 2008

11b: all-time sandbag.

By susan peplow
From: Phx J-Tree
Oct 13, 2008

"11b: all-time sandbag"

More people should write such Concise comments. That fun eh?

By Rob Dillon
From: Short Circuit
Oct 24, 2008

It doesn't have to be 'fun', to be fun, right?

What was truly not that great was watching Mama Bear introducing her cub to the joy of pack-raiding at the base as we sorted helplessly through our tangled rap lines. Probably best to hang your gear a few pieces up on the off chance you've ever kept food in there.

By DVuono
From: Burlington, VT
May 10, 2009

Yes, we had a similar experience with a bear but managed to scare it away.