This climb is in the next book right of "Munginella". Either climb a curving corner or a crack to the right to a belay. Climb unprotected face to the corner and continue to a tree. Continue up to a roof, traverse under it to it's end and follow the corner to the top. Descend to the left. be careful not to knock rocks off, onto climbers below.
By Paul Hunnicutt From: Boulder, CO Oct 24, 2006 rating: 5.9
Pitch 1 can either be a 5.8 lieback or a angling 5.8 hand crack. Use the tree to make getting into the hand crack easier or get tough and go straight in. You could probably get a few small pieces in the unprotected face up top to get to the 2 bolt belay at the start of pitch 2, but the moves are easy if you can climb the 5.8 crack. At the second belay use long slings or your rope to allow you to stand on the ledge and not hang. If you want to do the 5.8 lieback first pitch on the left bring big gear. Probably at least 2 #4 camalot's maybe even a #5, but I didn't do it because I went up to it with a #3 and it was too small at the start so I did the 5.8 hand crack. So that beta is just from viewing it from below. The whole thing looked wide all the way up, but you can lieback it and not OW. It looks fun.
Pitch 2 is easier, 5.7 mostly, with some nice lieback sections and good gear. We made a natural anchor in horizontals about 10' below the big roof.
Pitch 3 The roof accepts mid sized cams - maybe #1-#3 camalots as it varies in size, I used a #1. Then move right while jamming up into the roof. It really isn't so bad if you hand jam decently. If you reach up and left after the roof there is a huge horn that takes the sting out of everything...though the lieback section to the top is continuous and I thought harder than the roof itself. The exit move is a bit funky and be very careful to not knock rock down on climbers below you. The slope up top is very loose...I would suggest walking high into the trees to belay. On the walk off - there is a rap at the cliff band if it is wet.
Stellar route and you have 2 pitches to gaze up at the roof and wonder how hard it is...