New Diversions is a fun little climb with a unique crux.
P1: Begin at the obvious right-facing crack just left of a right-facing corner near where the trail hits the wall. Climb this wide crack up to near its terminus, then step up, clip a bolt, and climb up and right across the knob-studded face. The crux involves mantling onto a huge steering-wheel shaped knob. Belay just above, on a knob near the arete, at a pin with small cams/wires to back it up. 5.10a.
P2: Continue up the thin crack and knobs until it suddenly turns wide. Struggle up this to a belay at a nest of slings. 5.9.
Most parties do two raps from here (possible with a single 60m rope but be careful!), but it is possible to continue to the top on easier terrain before walking off.
Protection
Single set of cams through a 4 inch piece. A shoulder-length sling.
Easily done in one pitch with a 70'. The rap also went well with a single 70'.
By jpvandever From: San Francisco, CA May 5, 2008 rating: 5.10a
Be sure to use long slings on the bolt at the top of the first section and on the piton above the knobby section to reduce rope drag. The large knob in the center of the face can be slung for protection (and is even larger than it looks from the ground!).
By David Aguasca From: Plymouth, NH Jun 11, 2009 rating: 5.10a
There's a two bolt anchor at the top of this now, at what is described as the top of the second pitch. I led it and lowered off with a 60m rope, with just a little bit of slack left (so tie a knot in the end before you try this) Two 4ft slings are good for slinging knobs on the traverse. The mantle was pretty wild, but not the hardest part of the route, I think.
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