BETA PHOTO: The optional pendulum section on Royal arches
Description
Royal Arches is considered by many to be one of Yosemite's all-time classics. To be entirely honest, I'm not really sure why. While the route weaves its way up an impressive band of rock at a relatively easy grade, there are certainly other moderate climbs of superior aesthetic quality. Perhaps it is the history behind the climb, first negotiated in 1936, or the easy approach combined with an accessible grade of 5.7 A0, or the simple fact that it serves as the most effective approach to North Dome that makes the climb so popular... I don't know... but don't expect to be alone on this route.
Approach Royal Arches from the Ahwahnee parking lot. The most heavily traveled trail, well right of Serenity Crack, is likely to be the correct trail. The start of the climb is in a chimney in the back of a huge left-facing corner. The highlights: Climb up the chimney past a chockstone (5.6). Make a long 3rd class traverse on ledges to the right. Climb a steep, polished ramp/groove (5.5). Once again, traverse right on 3rd and 4th class ground -- do not be tempted to start climbing up the face or corners, continue right as far as possible. Eventually head up on a 5.7 finger crack. At this point, follow the chalk and clean rock up various crack and ledge systems for several pitches, eventually ending up in a left-facing corner system. At the top of this corner system there is a bolted anchor on the face from which a 30' length of fixed line is attached. Clip this for pro, and either pendulum left or climb left (two moves of polished 5.10-) to a ledge system. Follow this way to the left. Climb up either side of a giant hollow flake, then step left to some tree climbing to a belay alcove. Step around a corner to the left and continue up on low angle 5.6-5.7 terrain. Just below the headwall and roof systems, continue traversing left following the line of least resistance. One pitch climbs through some dirt mounds. Shortly after there is another traversing pitch with a two bolt anchor -- make note of this if you plan to rappel. One more traversing pitch finishes the climb -- this one can feel a bit sketchy compared to the rest of the climb. Traverse high for gear in a dirty undercling, or traverse low to clip a lone bolt. Either way beware of pine needles on the slab. This pitch is strange in that it seamlessly merges into an actual trail into the woods... kinda cool.
Other miscellaneous notes:
Topping out involves following the trail left and then up.
Right where the climb ends there is a great spring with water that is safe to drink -- you can't miss it.
Sleep in! There are numerous places on the climb to pass or be passed.
The rappel route is fast and effective and can be done with one or two ropes. I highly recommend consulting with the SuperTopo guide for specific details on the locations of the rap stations.
The walkoff is via the North Dome Gully. For parties only doing Royal Arches (and not doing another climb on North Dome), the raps are the way to go. For parties continuing on to North Dome (or for climbs on the Washington Column), the Gully would be much faster.
By George Bell From: Boulder, CO Nov 20, 2006 rating: 5.9
This was literally the first climb I did in Yosemite. It is rather amazing that some parties can blast up this route in an hour, while other parties take 12 hours. My first trip up was in the latter category! Many years later I climbed it in a leisurely 3 hours, why the heck did it take us so long the first time? Inexperience, confusion, no sense of urgency I guess. However the year was 1983 and we were one of the last to cross the rotten log. The crux of the original route was the second traverse just before the rotten log. This crux is no longer part of the route.
In the spring this route is susceptible to snow-melt streams (even into July after a big winter). You can still do the route, but you have to navigate some stream crossings for extra fun.
I'm considering this for my first long climb in the Valley in just a few weeks. Anybody got advice on trying to take just a single 70M rope for this route? Does a 70M allow you to link more pitches? Can you rap safely to all the standard rap stations on a 70M? Sure would be nice to leave my two 60s at home...
Take 2 60's and do the 7 raps in the dark with one headlamp. That was our strategy.....
By Mike Morley Administrator From: Oakland, CA Jun 29, 2007
Jeff, Royal Arches is in the direct sun almost all day. My suggestion would be to start early, go fast, and plan on being back on the ground before noon. Carry one single 60 or 70m rope. In my opinion, carrying a second rope in order to do a few less raps isn't really worth the extra effort.
Ok, just did Royal Arches last weekend. Awesome experience (highly recomend taking advantage of the bivy spot with the freshwater spring at the top for a most memorable night in Yosemite). Regarding my previous 2x60M vs. 1x70M rope question, I can now say with confidence that one 70M rope would've made for MUCH faster/easier climbing in the summer heat. We came across two other parties who were able to link more pitches than us with their 70M rope, and I guarantee I would've climbed faster if I wasn't lugging up that damn 2nd rope in my pack.
Thomas Keefer and I linked this with Crest Jewel one fine day in 2005 (?) and climbed all day long without seeing another soul until we topped out on North Dome. It's a classic linkup and well worth doing. We started at sunrise and got down just in time to hit the pizza deck. Tom subsequently went back and linked up Crest Jewel Direct, which he said was even better. Either way, you can blast up Royal Arches in an hour or two if you simul, and then gawk at the face of Half Dome while climbing pristine, judiciously bolted slabs for 10 more pitches. Just don't screw up the 'reproach' down North Dome Gully (or back to the top of RA for the raps, which we chose instead). Highly recommended linkup.
By Karsten From: Reno, NV Oct 29, 2007 rating: 5.10a
I think the North Dome Gulley descent is not a bad option. That being said DON'T SCREW IT UP. I have done this descent in like 30 min before but most people will take an hour or so. Take your time and get it right or you'll be facing dangerous cliff-outs. The raps might be a good option if darkness is approaching but for many the descent can provide some of the most spectacular views of half dome.
Royal Arches
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