Twenty feet to the right of the standard start for Nutcracker is a beautiful finger crack that ascends the blank wall to a tree (110'). After the tree ascend another 80 feet to join the original route at the start of the fourth pitch.
The start of the variation takes you up 15 feet of an unprotected slab. Then sink a couple small cams and climb up the smooth 5.9 face. After 20 feet the climbing eases.
Location
Twenty feet to the right of the original Nutcracker start.
Protection
Cams from .25 to 2 inches.
Photos of Nutcracker 5.9 Start Variation Slideshow
If using this start, you can do the route in 4 pitches with a 70m rope. P1. Go to the second large tree for the first belay (shade, and a nice perch) ~ 60m. P2. Go to a gear belay just below the roof. Be mindful of ropedrag. 70m rope stretcher. P3. Go to a gear belay about 20' below the mantle, at a stance on a dike where there used to be bolts. P4. Over the top.
The first pitch is very slick, especially the first couple of moves, and a little reachy.
It's my understanding most people start this variation on the low-angle face directly below the crack. To suggest another variation: Start on the left of the face and follow the seam (that eventually turns into the crack) in from the left. It's probably goes at about 5.9, no protection. It's aesthetic and enjoyable, IMO.
Beware that if you take this alternate (and polished) start to Nutcracker, you may be passed by parties on the real (and much easier) 1st pitch. This is what has kept me from climbing the rest of the route, got to the first belay to find that some Frenchies had already nabbed the belay, we bailed off because we didn't want to wait behind them (after they obviously scrambled to beat us to the belay).
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