The East Buttress of El Cap, is one of the old school classics of Yosemite and, more often than not, the first (and sometimes only) route on the Captain for a lot of El Cap climbers. Long and free, it features just enough burly climbing to get your attention, and enough easy and fun climbing to bring you back again and again.
Although once considered a hefty climb, the East Buttress is completed fairly easily in a day by modern climbers, armed with sticky rubber shoes and camming devices. Climbed entirely free, the route goes at 5.10b, although the crux move is often felt to be much harder. Climbing fast and light, a reasonably capable pair of climbers should be able to knock the route off in not much more than six hours.
The East Buttress is one of the more popular free routes in the Valley. This means if you don’t want to be plugging away in someone’ s wake up the route, you should get an early start. There is very little in the way of fixed protection on the route, aside from a few pitons and a handful of bolts. You should be prepared to set your own belay anchors.
Location
This is basically the last route on the right side of El Cap. You can park your vehicle along the road by El Cap Meadows and hoof up to the route from there. After hiking up the talus below the right face of El Cap, you should find a trail running along the wall to the right. The start of the East Buuttress will be found in a brushy area just before a dropoff.
There used to be a bolt (or was it a pin?) at the crux. But I gather it is no longer there? Great topo, by the way.
In the spring there is sometimes a spectacular waterfall just west of this route. What often happens that time of year is that the route is dry in the morning, but then the wind begins blowing slightly up the valley, and the waterfall is blown onto the route! Beware of this, just because it faces south in the spring it may not be dry. It can be exciting watching the waterfall drift towards you from the top of the second pitch!
By Adam Stackhouse Administrator From: Escondido, Ca Jun 23, 2006
The topo image is a very nice touch. Well done, and something to think about for the future of this website/database.
I'm considering this route for my annual big climb/road trip. I've read the stuff about this route online, the Supertopo section, etc. I'm also comfortable at this level on trad granite. But details, details...Anyone have any tips re: Gear? Anything particularly useful, esp. something to double up on, etc? Any quirks on routefinding? Are the pitches fair for the grade or sandbags? Any other tips for this route? Thanks.
I'd say 5.9 is a bit of a sandbag rating, it might have been 5.9 back in the day of the Valley hardmen, but comparing it to other 5.9ers in the Valley, it is more difficult. I'd say 5.10- not to be super picky, is a better description
The only way I ever got to climb the Captain. I'm pretty sure that was a pin pounded in the corner for pro. The climb was a challange for me. I led all the 5.9's. I had just gotten my first pair of sticky rubber shoes that summer. It was a little polished even then.
By Chris Owen Administrator From: La Crescenta, CA Oct 7, 2006
Saw a photo in Climbing magazine, back in the 80's of someone on P3 and just had to do this route. What a great and classic climb.
By Nick Stayner From: Tuolumne Meadows, CA Jun 6, 2007
The first two pitches are linked (w/ a bit of simuling up very easy terrain for both climbers) w/ a 60 M. A useful way to pass a party who uses the belay after the 5.9 chimney.
By Sergio P From: Idaho Springs, CO Jun 21, 2007 rating: 5.10b
The Super Topo guide book indicates that the crux traverse on pitch 2 can not be aided. I found this to be inaccurate. The belay on top of pitch 1 hangs just left of this 2-3 move crux. Falling at that point involves swinging back into your belayer. In my case there was a party behind us (with the popularity of this route you can expect to share it with others) thus, we decided to aid past this section instead of trying to figure out the move and holding up others. Here is the aid beta: down climbed about 4 feet, traversed right to the corner, placed a small cam (BD C3 00) just below an old unusable pin, stepped up on a sling and kept on going. My personal opinion is that this crux is out of character with the rest of the route and skipping it is no major loss.
Not sure how you'd know, Sergio, if you didn't do the moves. Calling a sequence of moves on a route that follows natural features and weaknesses 'out of character' is weak. Judging the aesthetic value of that sequence relative to the rest of the climb when you haven't done the moves is weaker. It ain't a gym route, it's a natural line, take it on its own terms. Grrr, end pointless rant here, sorry.
By Sergio P From: Idaho Springs, CO Oct 9, 2007 rating: 5.10b
Did the moves, reversed the moves, fell, aided for speed. My personal opinion is that it is a great route regardless of how someone gets past the crux. But please don't take my personal opinion too seriously; go find out for yourself.
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