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 Print a Mini-Guide - Includes Routes!
DescriptionAnywhere else in the world, a rock formation the size and quality of Middle Cathedral Rock would be a full-on climbing area in it's own right. It has the unfortunate problem of residing right across the road from THE ROCK (El Capitan), however. Still, Middle Cathedral has some excellent, long free routes on it that are well worth checking out. The most popular route on MCR is probably The East Buttress (5.9 A0 or 10c), included in the 50 Classic Climbs of North America. The next most trafficed route is probably Central Pillar of Frenzy (5.9), a nice crack line to the right of the East Butt (most parties climb five pitches and then rappel). Getting ThereMiddle Cathedral Rock is the (surprise!) middle of the three Cathedral Rocks, found just south across the valley from El Capitan. The ClassicsMountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Middle Cathedral Rock:
Kor-Beck 5.9 Trad, 6 pitches, 600 feet
Central Pillar of Frenzy 5.9 Trad, 5 pitches
Pee Pee Pillar 5.10a Trad, 1 pitch, 95 feet
Direct North Buttress (DNB) 5.10b Trad, 17 pitches, 1700 feet, Grade V
Stoner's Highway 5.10c R Trad, 10 pitches, 1000 feet
East Buttress 5.10c Trad, 11 pitches, 1100 feet, Grade IV
Featured Route For Middle Cathedral Rock
 Stoners' Highway is a unique climb for Yosemite in that it is devoid of continuous crack systems. Instead, it involves high angle slab and face connecting various features for ten sustained and consistant pitches. The climbing is excellent (somewhat reminiscent of Birds of Fire in Rocky Mountain National Park), gear is adequate (expect run outs, but except for the first pitch and one of the upper pitches, nothing is too dangerous at the 5.10 le...[more] Browse More Classics in CA
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