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Middle Cathedral Rock

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Middle Cathedral Rock

Submitted By: Greg Opland on Jun 15, 2006
Administrator: Greg Opland
Elevation: 4,000 feet
Latitude: 37.7165  Longitude: -119.6363 
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BETA PHOTO: Middle Catherdral Rock


Description 

Anywhere else in the world, a rock formation the size and quality of Middle Cathedral Rock would be a full-on climbing area in it's own right. It has the unfortunate problem of residing right across the road from THE ROCK (El Capitan), however. Still, Middle Cathedral has some excellent, long free routes on it that are well worth checking out. The most popular route on MCR is probably The East Buttress (5.9 A0 or 10c), included in the 50 Classic Climbs of North America. The next most trafficed route is probably Central Pillar of Frenzy (5.9), a nice crack line to the right of the East Butt (most parties climb five pitches and then rappel).

Warning: Some rockfall has occurred on MCR in the area of the Direct North Buttress (DNB) route. Watch your head!


Getting There 

Middle Cathedral Rock is the (surprise!) middle of the three Cathedral Rocks, found just south across the valley from El Capitan.



Featured Route For Middle Cathedral Rock
Jay Bettencourt following the wide section above the roof on the 3rd pitch (Fall, 2002)

Central Pillar of Frenzy 5.9  CA : Yosemite National Park : Middle Cathedral Rock
Central Pillar of Frenzy is a super-popular line up the obvious pillar on the lefthand side of Middle Cathedral's northeast face. There are almost always several parties on, or in line for, this climb because of it's excellent, though perhaps never outstanding, five pitches of sustained crack climbing. The climb is actually nine pitches, but does anyone bother with the last four? P1: Begin in a right-facing corner on the right side of the pil...[more]


Add Photo Photos of Middle Cathedral Rock
Cathedral Rocks.<br />Photo by Blitzo.

BETA PHOTO: Cathedral Rocks.
Photo by Blitzo.


John Bachar bouldering at the base of Middle Cathedral Rock, early 1980s.<br />Photo by Blitzo.

John Bachar bouldering at the base of Middle Cathe...

A couple relaxing in ElCap meadow with Middle Cathedral in the background...

A couple relaxing in ElCap meadow with Middle Cath...