Ciebola has two excellent, but very different pitches.
Pitch 1 follows a thin crack past a pin and a bolt. Good thin cams/stoppers here. I think getting to the bolt is the crux of the pitch. Face traverse left around the roof 5.9+ and easy face leads past 2 bolts on a knobby face. Run it out on stimulating climbing 20 feet to the bolted belay, exciting 5.9+ here. 25 meters.
Pitch 2 head out right and up a ways on easy climbing to the first bolt. Up and right a ways again on exciting 5.9+ climbing to the second bolt then the bolts seem to come much more often for well protected, sustained knob climbing. At the eighth bolt climb up then right to 3 more bolts and a long traverse to the bolted belay. This traverse can be hairy for the second. 30 meters.
Rappel straight to the ground 60 meters or 30 meters (one rope) to the anchors at the top of the first pitch of Alien with a second 30 meter rappel to the ground.
Location
This route starts on the nice very thin seam right of Sweat Jesus on the northwest face of Medlicott Dome's far west side. Approach as for Bachar-Yerian then go west about 200 meters.
Protection
Thin stoppers to 1", include thin cams but no micro-nuts. A sling tie-off for the pin on the first pitch is probably safer than clipping the pin eye. Second pitch has 11 bolts. Double ropes can help with rope drag and better protect your second on the second pitch traverse.
Ciebola is literally onion in Spanish. Cibola (sometimes Ciebola) is one the the mythical Seven Cities of Gold that Spanish conquistadors were searching for in the New World.
I think the second pitch of Ciebola is easier and less stressful than the third pitch of Ursula.
By Russ Walling From: www.FishProducts.com Jul 26, 2009
Is the first pitch really 100 meters, or is that feet?
RSS Feed
Slideshow
