Home - Destinations - People - Partners - Forum - Photos - What's New
 ADVANCED
Medlicott Dome East End
Show routes:
Select route...
Donuts 
Excellent Smithers 
Goldmember 
Piss Easy (aka West Face of Medlicott) 
Scorpion 
Shagadelic 
Super Chicken 
Wailing Wall 
Yawn, The 

Scorpion 

5.11b

   

FA: Dale Bard & Bob Locke - July, 1976
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.11b [details]
Length: 3 pitches, 300 feet
Views: 35 page views

Submitted By: Josh Janes on Sep 29, 2008


Add Photo  Add Comment 

You and this route  |  Other Opinions (1)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
 Printer Friendly View

Description 

This is an awesome route that has a lot of variety: steep jugs to start, thin slab, a beautiful crack, and a roof. New ASCA hardware makes it a very safe outing as well.

Begin just left of The Yawn Corner and the obvious Wailing Wall roof.

P1: Monkey out left on jugs, then stand up to clip two bolts. Pull up into a corner, clip a high bolt, step down and perform a thin traverse left. Finally, finish with super-thin slab moves up to the anchor. 5.11b, 100'.

P2: Thin moves off the belay past two bolts to an easy, fun crack. Bolted belay. 5.11b, 80'.

P3: Cruxy moves up a steep crack ease after a bit. Finally, pull a fun, airy roof above and traverse left to the anchor. Lower off this anchor back to the belay and TR your second up. 5.10d, 90'.

Rap from the anchor below the third pitch with two ropes back to the belay ledge at the start of the route.


Protection 

Draws & slings, a single set of cams to #1 Camalot. Wires.